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A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 




C. F. King, J] 



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A BOY'S 
VACATION ABROAD 

AN AMERICAN BOY'S DIARY OF HIS 
FIRST TRIP TO EUROPE 



BY 

C. F. KING, Jr. 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 
From Photographs by the Author 



BOSTON 

THE C. M. CLARK PUBLISHING CO. 

1906 



*&. 



_** 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

DEC 22 » 906 

A CoDyrlffht Entry 
CLASS fi[ XXc, No, 



■ h 



Copyright, 1906 

The C. M. Clark Publishing Co. 

Boston, Mass. 



ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL, LONDON 



fa\ t lA.U % 11O 






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PUBLISHERS' NOTE 

We suggested to young King that he reproduce the 
Dedication in his own handwriting .and wrote -him to 
this effect. His answer was so good that we thought 
we would tell the readers about it. It ran as follows: 

"I wrote out that Dedication the best I could and 
hope it is the correct thing, but must say I think to 
print it in type would look much better, for I write 
like a hen, and do not like the idea of writing in 
this book. Am afraid it will queer the book." 



INTRODUCTORY 

THIS is my first book. I have worked 
awfully hard to write it. It is the first 
time I ever tried to write a book and, of course, 
I do not know how well I have succeeded. It 
may be a terrible "frost" and then again it 
may "catch on." I hope it will "catch on." 
I lost a lot of fun writing it. Every page rep- 
resents good hard work and for the most part 
it represents work put in when the tempera- 
ture was up high and the weather very hot. 
A great deal of it was also written when I 
had to fight mosquitoes with one hand while 
I was writing with the other. In Rome, 
Brindisi, Athens, and Constantinople I had 
to do this. The insects were also bothering 
me when I was trying to write in Naples, but 
I stuck to my post and now it is finished. 
The pictures I made with my own camera. 

I am proud of the pictures because they 
are good. That much of my book I feel sure 



vi INTRODUCTORY 

will not be criticised very severely, because I 
had a good camera and everybody who has 
seen the pictures says that they are all right. 

This book is the result of a promise which 
I made to my father. He told me that if I 
would be good at school and catch up in my 
studies, and also if my brother Cabaniss was 
good and caught up in his studies, and I 
would agree to write a complete diary about 
my trip and write it every night, he would 
take me with him on his vacation to Europe. 
And so this book is the result. 

When I was sitting up nights, tired and 
weary after a day's hard sightseeing, trying 
as best I could to fulfil my promise, writing 
in my diary, I never once thought that it 
would be made into a book for the public to 
read. I wrote it because I had made a 
promise to father and because he wanted me 
to write it. I thought it would be a good 
keepsake and that I could refer to it in the 
years to come and recall the pleasant times 
I had on the trip. 

I do not know whether or not anybody will 
consider it one of the " 57 Varieties." I hope, 
however, that it will please a great many 
people and I believe it will interest every one 



INTRODUCTORY vii 

who has traveled in the countries mentioned 
in the book. I believe those who have not 
been abroad will enjoy reading it, and every 
one who goes abroad for the first time could 
use this book as a guide, I am sure, to good 
advantage by going to see the things which 
I have tried to describe. 

A trip like the one described in this book 
would do anybody good. It would give them 
an idea of the world, and when they came 
back they would be better Americans and love 
our flag better than they did before they went 
away. That is the way I feel about it. 

I am very glad I was fortunate enough to 
take the trip, and glad also that I kept 
a diary while making it. All I can say to 
any one who reads this book is that if you 
have a chance to go to Europe and see some- 
thing of the Old World, don't miss it. It's 
worth while. 

G. F. King, Jr. 

St. John's School, 

Manlius, N. Y., September 27, 1906. 



ABOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Thursday, July 5, 1906. 

YESTERDAY my brother Cab and I 
packed two trunks, two dress suit cases, 
saw a baseball game at Winthrop in the 
afternoon and fireworks at Orient Heights at 
night. Our baggage was ready to be put 
aboard the Arabic to begin our bully vaca- 
tion trip to Europe which Papa had promised 
to us, and to which we had looked forward 
with so much pleasure and delight during 
our last days at school. 

Papa had written us that if we were real 
good he would take us on a vacation trip to 
see some of the sights of the Old World, and 
now we are aboard the great White Star 
Liner Arabic, the biggest ship that comes into 
Boston Harbor, and we are steaming along at a 
good clip for the other side. 

Already both Cab and I have been all over 
the ship. She is a beauty. There are five 



2 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

great decks, and the promenade on the upper 
deck is wider than the sidewalk on Washing- 
ton Street, Boston, and extends all the way 
round the ship. 

I have already gotten acquainted with the 
old sailor who is deck quartermaster, and he 
says that to walk round this promenade ten 
times is equal to a mile. 

A great bunch of people were at the dock 
in Charlestown to see the Arabic sail away. 
Among them were Mama and my two young 
brothers, several people from Papa's office 
and some of my friends from Winthrop. The 
boat pulled out at 9.30, and it was a great 
sight to see the people on the wharf as we 
were leaving all waving farewells to their 
friends aboard the big ship. The people in 
Papa's office and other friends sent great 
baskets of flowers for our stateroom, which 
made the room look very much like a florists' 
bazaar. 

There are twenty public school teachers 
aboard from Boston and other towns in New 
England. They are the prize winners in a 
big Boston newspaper contest and are all to 
the merry. I have already been introduced 
to the entire bunch. Among the teachers are 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 3 

Miss Grace Allan of Bristol, Rhode Island, 
Miss Ellen Barrett of Newburyport, Massa- 
chusetts, Miss Mary Bonython of Boston, 
Miss Madeline Cass of Woonsocket, Rhode 
Island, Miss Agnes Crosswell of Providence, 
Rhode Island, Miss Annie Maguire of Jamaica 
Plain, Miss Rachel Rosnosky of Boston, and 
Miss Elizabeth Sharry of Worcester. They 
are all, all right, all right, and unless we run 
into a storm and they all get seasick I am sure 
we are going to have a good time. 

I have also formed the acquaintance of Mr. 
John Burke of Boston, who, with his sister, 
Mrs. Keith, have deck chairs adjoining ours. 
I have also been introduced to Mr. J. W. 
Garth waite, a very jolly young man from San 
Francisco who is going over to attend Oxford 
College. Have met a Dr. Charles Green, 
Mrs. Green and their daughter, with whom I 
have made a date to play shuffle-board to- 
morrow. 

Mr. J. F. Hannan, a prominent lawyer of 
Lynn, is also on board with his son Lennox, 
who is about my age and is a bright fellow. I 
have met Mr. W. D. Maclnnes and Mrs. 
Maclnnes of Pittsfield. They have their two 
little boys, Donald and John, with them and 



4 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

are off for a good time. Mr. John W. Mitten 
and Mrs. Mitten of Boston are also on board 
and I have been introduced to them. I have 
also met the Honorable John R. Murphy of 
Charlestown,and Mrs. Murphy, and their three 
very bright children. Mr. Joseph F. Quinn, 
who was some years ago mayor of Salem, is 
on board and is accompanied by his son Tom, 
who is also about my age and a bright fellow. 
I was down in the dining saloon with him to- 
night and he can make the piano talk in great 
shape. 

My opinion of everybody on board, both 
First and Second Cabin, is that they are all to 
the good. 

At twelve o'clock to-day we passed out of 
sight of land. Had lunch at one, tea served 
on the promenade deck at four, dinner at 
7.30. The feed is all right. Papa has 
had a confidential interview with the dining 
saloon steward and he says all we have to do is 
to ask for anything we want. We have seats 
at a bully good table, chairs on the promenade 
deck, our stateroom is a good one and close 
to the bathroom, and everything is tip-top. To- 
day the sea has been smooth. I am sure we 
are going to have a good passage. I did not 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 5 

know it was possible to be so comfortable and 
have such a good time at sea. 

Being unable to keep all the flowers which 
our friends sent to us, in our stateroom, Papa 
presented them to the teachers. It made a 
hit with them. The teachers have a special 
table and you can hardly see them for the 
flowers, which are piled all over the table. 
Our first day has been all right. 



I 



ABOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Friday, July 6, 1906. 

WAS up early this morning and as soon 
as I rolled out of my berth took a peep 
through the port hole to see what was doing 
outside. The sea was as calm as an old mill 
pond and the ship wassailing along so smoothly 
that I hardly knew she was moving. 

Have had a good day. Finest ever. Every- 
body has gotten acquainted with everybody. 
We are in for a good time. The salt sea air 
whets up our appetites and we don't do a 
thing but eat when the bugle sounds for 
meals. 

The deck quartermaster, who is always 
smiling and is always happy, explained to me 
to-day that it was against the rules for First 
Cabin passengers to cross over the fence to the 
Second. He asked me if I wouldn't please be 
careful and not open the gate to go across to 
the Second when he was looking. He said 



8 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

they would call him down for it if they knew 
he saw me do it and didn't stop me. This 
deck quartermaster is all right. He has been 
on the Arabic ever since she was built and has 
been a sailor all his life. He fixes up games 
for us to play on the deck and can tell when a 
storm is coming by the smell of the atmosphere. 
He lives in Liverpool and has a wife and 
several children and says always when the 
trip is over he takes all of his money home 
and gives it to his wife. He is a very good 
man. 

I have already rubbered all over the ship. 
Been all over the second cabin, in the steer- 
age, engine room, and everywhere except on 
the captain's bridge. 

Got acquainted early this morning with 
Pete McNally, the great swimmer, and his 
trainer Walter Critchell. Pete is going over 
to do some stunts in foreign waters. He is one 
of the best story-tellers I ever met. I like to 
hear him talk. He is making a big hit on the 
ship. The day has been all to the merry. 




The deck- quartermaster always willing to fix 
up games for us. 




On the sugar loaf deck of the S. S. "Arabic." 



T 



S.S. ARABIC, 

Saturday, July 7, 1906. 

HE warm sunlight streaming in through my 
stateroom window this morning indicated 
that it was time to get up. A half-hour later 
I took my regular "constitutional" on the 
promenade deck. Most people who are not 
seasick do this to whet their appetites for 
breakfast. I didn't have to, for I had mine 
with me all the time. I don't need the salt 
sea air to give me an appetite. It was very 
warm this morning but it soon grew cooler, a 
nice breeze springing up. 

There wasn't much doing through the fore- 
noon, so I passed away the time reading the 
Boston papers, particularly the reports of the 
4th of July sporting events. While I was 
reading the Herald a passenger asked me if 
it was the morning paper. I told him it was 
but I didn't tell him what morning. Ten 
minutes later he happened along and said: 



10 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

"Young man, didn't you exercise a little 
mental reservation when I asked you if that 
was the morning paper?" I replied "May- 
be I did," and he went away laughing. Pa 
explained what he meant later and I had a 
quiet laugh. 

During the afternoon Cab and I played 
games with the teachers. In the evening, after 
dinner, we went up on the hurricane deck to 
observe the sunset, which was beautiful. When 
Old Sol went down on the horizon line she 
lost her fine round shape and, spreading out 
like a hot air balloon does when it drops on the 
water after the parachute-jumper has made 
the descent, seemed to drop out of sight side- 
ways. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't 
seen it. 

When the sun disappeared a group of pas- 
sengers started in singing in chorus, and gradu- 
ally the group became larger until there must 
have been a hundred voices there. Some of 
them were good and some were otherwise. 
Pete joined the party, and a regular concert 
was arranged then and there. He told some 
humorous stories and sang some comic songs, 
and a German Count — somebody said his 
name was Von De-Kickiac — made a speech 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 11 

in Dutch, and an Englishman named Chilli- 
willington gave an imitation of Chevalier, but 
Chevalier's friends would never recognize it. 

Pete made one of his songs famous on the 
ship — everybody was singing the chorus after- 
wards. It was about "Herrings' heads and 
all such things" in English dialect. The 
chorus went. 

"Of all the fishes in the sea, 
The herring is the fish for me. 
Sing Tiddy f ol lal f ol lido 
Tiddy f ol lal — tiddy f ol lal 
Tiddy fol lal fol lido." 

The concert lasted until eleven o'clock. 
I didn't see a ship to-day, although we 
covered three hundred and eighty miles. 




GC 
c 

SB 



SB 
PL 




s 



S.S. ARABIC, 

Sunday, July 8, 1906. 

UNDAY is a beautiful day on board ship 
with a bunch of dead ones — nobody did 
anything — nobody said anything — it was like 
a deaf and dumb picnic. The day was a long 
one. The monotony of the morning was 
broken some, for there were church services. 
And they were agreeably short! The best 
part of the service was that there was no ser- 
mon. 

We saw some sea birds, a black fish and a 
turtle — the turtle turned out to be a barrel. 

It was a beautiful day and the people on the 
ship ought to have enjoyed it. 

Somebody discovered a farmhouse on fire a 
few miles off on the port side and a few of the 
deck sleepers got up to see it. Then they laid 
out on the chairs again and kicked themselves 
for being fooled. Burning farmhouses are not 
common in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. 

13 



14 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

After to-day's experience I don't wonder 
that the Second Cabin passengers called the 
First Cabin "the morgue!" Over in the 
Second there was all kinds of fun, even if it was 
Sunday, and I don't think they sinned much 
either. Why do people wear long faces and 
look sick on Sunday ? 

We are three hundred eighty-eight miles 
closer to Europe to-day. 



S.S. ARABIC, 

Monday, July 9, 1906. 

I GOT up before breakfast, as usual, this 
morning, about nine o'clock. A full rigged 
ship was sighted which caused a little excite- 
ment for awhile. The passengers are wide 
awake to-day and playing games. The 
weather and sea still continue good. There 
is a little ground swell on but nobody appears 
to be seasick. 

Miss Cass, Miss Rosnosky, Cab, and myself 
went over to the Second Cabin to-night. There 
was an impromptu concert, and there was 
plenty of talent and a very pleasant hour was 
passed. 

Then we went over to the steerage deck, 
where a bunch of Orientals were having a 
dance and singing choruses which were not 
understandable. We side-stepped back to the 
First, but it was dead there and we stowed 
away up for'ard and spun yarns for an hour. 



15 



16 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

I am learning to use sailor language, and my 
expressions are becoming real salty. I boasted 
about it to-day and Pete told me I had better 
watch out or barnacles would begin to sprout 
on me. 

The ship is keeping up her pace — we made 
three hundred eighty-two miles to-day. 



S.S. ARABIC, 

Tuesday, July 10, 1906. 

ANOTHER beautiful day. Just as I came 
on deck this morning I noted some excite- 
ment among the Second Cabin passengers 
and ran aft to see what it was about. There 
was a large crowd at the rail looking over the 
sea. I asked an old Irish gentleman named 
Donahue what they were interested in, and in 
all seriousness he replied: "There's a flock of 
porcupines out there" — he meant a school of 
porpoises. 

We have been sailing over the Devil's 
Hole all day — it is said to be the worst 
place in the Atlantic Ocean, that the severest 
storms take place there, and that the water 
is so deep that it cannot be fathomed. It 
is supposed to be over six miles deep. Just 
think of it. You could drop the highest 
of the Himalaya Mountains in there and 
it would go out of sight. When they told 

17 



18 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

me about it I felt that I was on a dizzy 
height. 

We didn't pass a ship to-day, but whales were 
discovered very frequently, especially by Pete 
McNally and Tom Dowd. They make Chris- 
topher Columbus and the Lexow Committee 
look like the shadow of thirty cents for dis- 
covering things. They have wonderful eye- 
sight — binoculars haven't a look-in with them 
and they can make the average person believe 
he sees the things they point out, too. 

There was a funny incident over in the 
Second to-day. There is a Congregational 
minister over there who wears a Roman collar 
and cravat and is smooth shaven, and very 
much resembles a priest. Mr. Donahue, an 
old Irish gentleman, who had been very 
deferential to him, got in conversation with 
him to-day and learned, for the first time, that 
he was not a priest. He was disappointed, 
to say the least, and he told the minister so, 
adding: "But you are the finest imitation of a 
priest that I ever saw." 

At 2.30 this afternoon there was a series 
of athletic sports on the lower promenade 
deck given for the benefit of the Seamen's 
Orphans' Home. The games provided lots 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 19 

of amusement. Among the events were an 
egg and spoon race, obstacle race, cigarette 
race, needle and thread race, whistling contest, 
biffing on the boom, and a tug-of-war. It cost 
a quarter of a dollar to enter each of the con- 
tests and about all the younger passengers 
were competitors. 

In the evening there was an open-air con- 
cert on the promenade deck, Second Cabin, 
and a dance in the steerage. There is always 
something doing in the Second, and many of 
us went over and spent an enjoyable evening 
there. Our run was three hundred and eighty- 
seven miles to-day. 



S.S. ARABIC, 

Wednesday, July 11, 1906. 

WE passed close enough to a Cunarder 
at noon to-day to exchange signals. 
The Christophers on board were discovering 
something new every hour during the day. 

There was a little quiet excitement to-day 
for a time over a report that, during the night, 
several passengers had died in the steerage 
and were buried at sea, and that there were 
three births in that department. It was a 
fairy tale. 

Pa had his kidding shoes on too, and circu- 
lated a story that the compass had run down 
and that the ship would lose at least sixty miles 
on the run to-day. And there were many who 
swallowed the yarn. You can tell people any- 
thing at sea and make them believe it. 

Forty passengers were up at five o'clock this 
morning to see Pete swim around the ship for 
exercise. This was another of Pa's jokes. He 

21 



22 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

said that when the ship slows down every 
morning to oil the machinery, Pete takes advan- 
tage of it and swims around the ship for 
exercise. Captain Hambelton, Pa, and Pete 
have been seen to-day in earnest conversation 
and inspecting the life-boats, and a rumor is 
going around the ship that Pete is going to 
swim against the stream from Tastrut Light, 
off the Irish coast, to Roach's Point, Queens- 
town, a distance of fifty-two miles. 

The Second Cabin passengers gave their 
final grand concert in their saloon to-night. 
All the teachers, Pa, Cab, and myself went 
over. It was a bully concert. There were 
fourteen numbers, including monologues, sing- 
ing, recitations, and instrumental music. Pete 
told some stories and sang a song or two. 

After the concert Miss Cass and Miss Ros- 
nosky joined Pa, Cab, and myself in a mid- 
night lunch of sandwiches and fruit. We 
covered three hundred and eighty-seven miles 
to-day even if the compass did run down. 



S.S. ARABIC, 

Thursday, July 12, 1906. 

A FELLOW named "Brophy Tibibbetts" 
— the name was a bluff — issued a call 
on the bulletin this morning for a grand 
meeting to be held in the Second Cabin 
saloon to commemorate the Battle of the 
Boyne. It will not take place, for a number 
of patriotic Irishmen have declared they will 
create a riot if a meeting is even attempted. 
"Tibibbetts" is responsible for a great deal 
of guessing. He issued another bulletin and 
had everybody in the air. It read : — 

" There will be a Grand Bathing Suit Party 
in the Second Cabin at seven this evening. 
Ladies and gentlemen are expected to appear 
in bathing costumes. Pajamas and robes de 
nuit are acceptable. Everybody is expected to 
participate." 

And there were ladies on board who had 
read of such goings on at Newport who were 

23 



24 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

willing to take part in the affair, and who said 
it would be a stylish party. I'd like to have 
seen it carried out. 

There is a good deal of excitement over 
Pete's race with the steamer to-day, and a 
number of the women folks have petitioned 
the captain not to let him swim — they are 
afraid he'll get drowned. 

This is the last full day of the voyage and the 
captain says it is the best this season — not a 
bad day on the entire trip and everybody well 
and happy. 

After lunch we sighted the Irish coast, and 
everybody became interested in the Emerald 
Isle. Thousands of sea gulls joined us here 
and the camera fiends got busy. 

The coast of Ireland looks pretty barren — 
there are only a few trees and now and then an 
old castle on a hill, or a small village. About 
three o'clock we passed Tastrut Light, which 
looks something like our Boston Light. In 
fact, all lighthouses look alike to me. It is 
situated on a large rock and has a Marconi 
station. After we got tired of looking at Ire- 
land, Miss Croswell, Miss Sharry, Miss Allan, 
Mr. Quinn, Mr. Minton, and myself played 
shuffle-board for an hour and pitched quoits. 




Westminster Abbey in London. 




Discovering a burning barn at sea. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 25 

Pete was not allowed to jump overboard off 
Tastrut for his swim, although he appeared in 
his swimming togs — the captain threatening 
to lock him up if he persisted. It was a great 
bluff on his part and the captain entered into 
the joke splendidly. Pa, with a long, serious 
face, played his part like an actor. He stirred 
up everybody and then became the doctor. 
He certainly was slick as a practical joker. I 
saw him to-day making a wise-looking man 
believe that the rudder wasn't working right 
and that we were turning in a circle, and the 
man didn't wake up for a long time. 

At 8.45 the ship slowed down about three 
miles from the entrance to Queenstown Har- 
bor, and a large side-wheel English steamer 
called a "tender" came alongside to take off 
the passengers for Ireland. It took about half 
an hour to put the trunks aboard that tender, 
and the way they slid them down upon her 
deck was "smashing baggage" all right, all 
right. Then about one hundred and fifty passen- 
gers went aboard and stood upon the upper 
deck; as they left we exchanged farewells and 
some of them were really tearful. 

And then everybody sang. "My Old Ken- 
tucky Home" was started by the Mormon 



26 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

Glee Club, assisted by everybody. That was 
Walter Critchell's favorite — he sang it all the 
time. It made a hit with me, for Walter was 
born in England and never was in Kentucky. 
Yet he always sang it with all his heart and 
soul. 

"Good Night Ladies" went great, and 
" America " — Gee ! How they sang it ! There 
were many three cheers given — all the popu- 
lar ones being remembered, including Tom 
Dowd, the school teachers, Pete, Walter, Pa, 
a Mormon named Willie, the Faheys, from 
Charlestown, and others. It was a grand 
parting. As the steamers parted, the singing 
continued, handkerchiefs waved and hun- 
dreds of little U. S. flags fluttered in the hands 
of those on board both vessels during the fare- 
wells. Everybody seemed to belong to one 
great family. I'll never forget that scene in 
the Irish Sea. 

It was lonesome for a few hours after we 
parted. Then Pete and his friends and the 
Mormons all got together on the Second Cabin 
promenade and started to serenade the school 
teachers, who gathered up on the upper prome- 
nade deck of the First. There was a space of 
forty feet between them, and they just made 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 27 

the air ring with song for over an hour. Then 
the teachers got a move on and sang a song or 
two in return. Kindergarten songs were popu- 
lar, and "Lightly Row," "Beside the Blue 
Lake," and "Refreshed by Gentle Slumbers" 
became popular, except to those who were try- 
ing to get a little sleep. For the concert con- 
tinued until after midnight. 

It was a great night. 

We made three hundred eighty miles to-day. 







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The Hotel Cecil, in London. 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Friday, July 13, 1906. 

DURING the night we passed through St. 
George's Channel and up into the Irish 
Sea. The coast of Wales was in sight during the 
morning hours. I was up very early and, for 
the first time, saw the sun rise out of the sea — 
saw her coming up as big as a balloon and all 
dripping wet, the water running down over 
her sides. It's a beautiful illusion and a new 
one on me. 

We had lunch earlier than usual — at 11.45 
— for we were due in Liverpool at one o'clock. 
Before we reached the river Mersey we struck 
the usual fog, but as it was not especially thick 
we could see quite a distance. The passage 
up the river was not very interesting until we 
sighted New Brighton, the Coney Island of 
Liverpool, with its great electric tower, its Ferris 
Wheel and other attractive features. Pa told 
Cab that the tower was the great Eiffel Tower 

29 



30 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

of Paris, and like the little innocent he is, he 
swallowed it. Then we passed numerous craft, 
interesting because very unlike our American 
craft, and then the great Liverpool docks and 
the walled city itself. 

We came to anchor near the Cedric, another 
White Star Liner, in front of the Riverside 
Railway Station and the great landing stage. 
The landing stage is really a gigantic floating 
pier. While we were making fast to the stage 
good-bys were in order for almost an hour, 
and then we passed over the gangway to Eng- 
lish soil. Just before we left the ship an old 
fellow told me he would be glad when we 
landed on " terra-cotta," and he looked not 
only human but intelligent, too. 

What excitement there was on the pier! 
Everybody hustling for baggage, freight hand- 
lers busy, messenger boys actually moving 
lively, cabbies scambling for patrons, people 
rushing for the train, friends greeting friends, 
kissing and crying competitions, and all sorts 
of things going on. 

In all the excitement I recognized Mr. John 
I. Taylor, the American League Baseball 
magnate of Boston. He was living in Eng- 
land and came down to meet his mother, who 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 31 

was a passenger on the Arabic. Pa secured 
a compartment on the London & North-western 
train for London, and with Mr. Garthwaite, 
of California, a student at Oxford, Cab and 
myself we occupied it. We left at 3.15 for 
the great metropolis, and, after passing the 
docks and through the tunnel under the river, 
we were soon flying through some beau- 
tiful country. There were splendid farms, 
bounded by hedges and stone walls, great 
herds of sheep and beautiful towers. The 
houses impressed me — they are all built of 
brick, have a great many chimneys, are plain 
looking and all are built alike. Occasionally 
we passed a fine old castle. 

We arrived at Euston Station, London, at 
6.30, making the run from Liverpool in three 
hours and fifteen minutes, not bad time for 
two hundred and twelve miles. The cars are 
entirely different from our American cars. I 
like ours best. They call them " railway car- 
riages" in England, which seemed funny to 
me. 

Boarding a bus, we were driven to the Hotel 
Cecil on the Strand. We got something to eat 
and then walked to the Western Union Cable 
Office in Trafalgar Square, and sent a cable 



32 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

home to Mama saying we arrived O. K. 
Then we went to the Alhambra Music Hall, 
and witnessed one of the best vaudeville shows 
I have ever seen. The theater is very large 
and beautiful. Smoking is allowed in any 
part of the house. Everybody had on evening 
clothes but us. 

The women were dressed very swell and 
were covered with jewelry and paint. They 
wore nothing on the shoulders during the per- 
formance. Candy, sandwiches, tea, coffee, 
cigars, cigarettes, ice cream, cake, programs, 
beer, liquors, anything one was apt to want, 
was passed around for sale. The show 
closed with a grand ballet called " L'Amour," 
and in it were three hundred girls. It was 
great. It wasn't over until 11.30. On the 
way back to the Cecil we stopped at Scott's 
for lunch. We didn't waste any time getting 
to bed, for we were thoroughly tired. 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Saturday, July 14, 1906. 

WE had breakfast at nine o'clock and 
then started out to see London on foot 
— that is, we were on foot. We strolled along 
the Strand, past the Law Courts to Temple 
Bar. I needed a hair-cut, and finding a 
barber-shop just in front of Temple Bar, went 
in and experienced an English hair-cut — and 
it is an experience too! The barber shop was 
at one time the throne room of the Palace of 
Henry VIII, and the place where Henry and 
Cardinal Wolsey held many important con- 
ferences. Temple Bar marks the entrance to 
the old city of London; the great gateway once 
stood there. 

Fleet Street, a continuation of the Strand, is 
the "Newspaper Row" of London, all the 
correspondents for papers all over the world 
having offices there. Down through Ludgate 
Hill Circus and up along Cheapside to St. 

33 



34 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

Paul's Cathedral was an interesting stroll. A 
funny thing about London is that the Cir- 
cuses are what we call squares in American 
cities. I thought we were going to have a bully 
time in London, for I heard the different Cir- 
cuses mentioned and I'm very fond of tented 
shows, peanuts, and lemonade, even if it is pink. 

We went up by the Mansion House, where 
the Lord Mayor lives, the Bank of England, 
and the Royal Exchange. We got measured 
for clothes at Gibbs. I ain't much stuck on 
London tailors — they do say they have good 
harness-makers in London, though. 

Mounting a bus we were driven back to the 
Strand and over the famous London Bridge, 
and then returned to the hotel, where we 
found Walter, Pete, and Pa waiting for us. 
Walter broke away and, with Cab and I, 
strolled over to Westminster Abbey, passing 
the war office and Scotland Yard on the way. 
Westminster Abbey was full of interest. It 
is an old-timer among churches and many 
repairs were being made upon it to keep it 
from falling apart. We saw the tombs of 
famous people of England and the memorials 
in marble to the memory of great men and 
great events. In the "Poets' Corner" I felt 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 35 

proud when I saw the bust of Longfellow, and 
prouder when I heard an Englishman remark, 
" He was the universal poet of our language." 

From the Abbey we drifted down by the 
House of Parliament to Waterloo Bridge and 
along the Thames Embankment to the hotel. 
On the way we saw Cleopatra's Needle, — a 
great big obelisk from Egypt. We ran across 
London's famous sidewalk artist, a man who 
draws pictures with colored crayons on the 
street pavement. He is said to belong to a 
prominent family and was ruined by drinking. 
He draws with his left hand, his right having 
been struck by lightning. 

We got back to the Cecil just in time to 
meet Colonel William Jennings Bryan, who 
may be our next president. With Pa, Pete, 
Walter, Mr. Henry G. Day of Providence, 
and Colonel Bryan, We had lunch in the big 
open court at the entrance to the hotel. We 
felt honored, and I know we were envied by 
many who were sitting around us. Colonel 
Bryan wasn't a bit stuck up, and was just like 
any ordinary nice American. We lolled around 
until dinner, and later Cab and I walked over 
to Piccadilly Circus and back, and then turned 
in, pretty tired after the day's sightseeing. 



§7 



A London policeman. 




House of Parliament in London. 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Sunday, July 15, 1906. 

WE were up early and after breakfast 
hired a victoria and went for a three 
hours' drive about London. We passed every- 
thing worth seeing, and during the drive went 
in through Hyde Park, where we met Peter, 
Walter, and a bunch of the school teachers who 
were out to view the regular Sunday morning 
"parade" in the park. When they saw us 
they gave us a real American reception and, 
judging from the way the natives looked at us, 
I guess they thought one of the Royal Family 
had happened on the scene. We spent the 
afternoon writing letters. 

In the evening Cab and I went down to the 
St. Ermins Hotel, Westminster, to call on the 
school teachers — they arrived there last night 
from Stratford-on-Avon. They were pleased 
to see us for they were somewhat lonesome. 
Miss Rosnosky, Miss Cass, Cab, and myself 

37 



38 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

then went for a stroll and a bus ride. As we 
were leaving we met Miss Bonython, Mr. 
Garthwaite, Mr. McNally, Mr. Critchell, Miss 
Sharry, Miss Barrett, Miss Rand, and Miss 
Maguire — they went for a bus ride to White- 
chapel. 

On returning home, Pa passed us on White- 
hall Street — he was in a cab — he got out and 
joined us on our walk back to the hotel. 

Since coming to London I have noticed 
many things which are different from us in 
America. At the night performances at the 
theater almost everybody wears evening dress, 
while in the afternoon the Prince Albert coat 
and tall hat are very common. The soldiers 
wear red uniforms and when off duty carry 
canes to keep them from putting their hands 
in their pockets. The police, letter-carriers 
and messenger boys wear uniforms. The 
fire stations are in the middle of the street and 
consist of a small push cart with a few ladders. 
There are no fire engines such as we have in 
the United States. 

The streets have lights in the center; there 
are no telegraph poles ; the lavatories are under 
ground; there are no street cars in the city 
proper, busses being used instead. Electric 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 39 

double-deck street cars run in the suburbs. 
One has to pay for programs at the theater, and 
in good hotels has to pay for a seat at the table. 
Bars are open on Sunday except during the 
church hours. There are very few drug stores 
or sporting-goods stores, and soda fountains 
cannot be discovered even with the aid of a 
telescope. 

People are just getting educated to using ice 
water; are all grafters and are exceedingly 
polite — even when they hand you anything 
they say "thank you." It's a habit with 
them. 

The subway is not up to ours. It is badly 
lighted; the stations are dark and dirty; both 
steam and electric trains are run through 
it, and it is always filled with coal dust and 
smoke. 




The London Tower 




A motor l>us car in London. 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Monday, July 16, 1906. 

CAB and I started out this morning to do 
some sightseeing. We took a bus to 
London Tower and spent about two hours 
there. We went through the White Tower, 
Beauchamp Tower and the Armory, and 
saw all there was to be seen, including the 
"Traitor's Gate" and the Crown Jewels. The 
armory, with its great collection of weapons of 
every description, armor, etc., was quite inter- 
esting. The Tower gives one the shivers 
when he thinks of what took place there years 
ago, and the yard, where the scaffold stood 
where the kings killed their wives when they 
got tired of them, makes you feel glad you 
didn't live in England in those times. I heard 
a man say, " The whole thing is a gruesome 
reminder of England's inglorious past," and 
I guess he was right. I am so glad I am an 
American. We've got relics in America, but 

41 



42 A BOYS VACATION ABROAD 

they stand for something decent and we can 
point with pride to them and tell the stories 
connected with them. The Crown Jewels 
were certainly beautiful. 

From the Tower of London we walked 
through the passageway that is used when the 
drawbridge is open, and got a fine view of Lon- 
don and the Thames from the bridge. 

To-night Miss Cass and Miss Rosnosky 
went with Cab and myself to the Vaudeville 
Theater to see Edna May in "The Belle of 
Mayfair." She was all to the merry and so 
was the rest of the show. The teachers were 
delighted — it was their first visit to a London 
theater. After the theater we met Mr. Henry 
G. Day, of Providence, and Mrs. Henry H. 
Love, of Boston, at our hotel. Mrs. Love 
had started for America on the Deutschland a 
few days before, but the steamer collided with 
a pier at Dover, and Mrs. Love returned to 
London to go on another steamer. She had 
been touring the continent for two months. 



c 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Tuesday, July 17, 1906. 

AB and I spent the morning in the Na- 
tional Picture Gallery, where we saw 
some rare paintings from the hands of artists 
all over the world. I left Cab looking at the 
paintings while I went off to take some pic- 
tures with my camera. 

In the afternoon I went to the British Mu- 
seum, met the teachers there and three young 
fellows from Raleigh, North Carolina. That 
evening I ordered five hansoms and invited 
eight of the teachers to go with Cab and myself 
to Madame Toussaud's Wax Works. I had 
two of the teachers in a hansom with me, and, 
as the seat would only hold two, one of them 
sat on my lap. She didn't make any fuss over 
it — neither did I. 

We returned to Charing Cross by the tube — 
subway — and had a car to ourselves. We 
had a merry time and sang all the way home, 

43 



44 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

creating quite a little sensation at every sta- 
tion — and the songs were all good American 
songs, too, with a real patriotic flavor. We 
had lunch at the Cecil and then drove the 
teachers back to St. Ermins. The teachers 
in the party were Miss Cass, Miss Rosnosky, 
Miss Hatton, Miss Sharry, Miss Allan, Miss 
Lamphrey, Miss Maguire, and Miss Barrett. 
They are a jolly bunch. 




Ludgate (Circus in London. 




One of the many beautiful fountains on the Champs Elysee, 
in Paris. 



c 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Wednesday, July 18, 1906. 

AB and I went through St. Paul's Cathe- 
dral this morning. It is the finest as well 
as the largest church I have ever been in. In 
the afternoon Miss Cass and I went to West- 
minster Abbey and in the evening we went to 
the Criterion Theater. We met Cab and Miss 
Rosnosky there. We had bully good seats; 
they were complimentary, given to Pa by a 
friend. I wrote several letters on my return 
to the hotel, to Ma and others. 

Pete and Walter left London for Paris to- 
day. 



45 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Thursday, July 19, 1906. 

WE spent this morning at the tailor's and 
rubbering about town. In the after- 
noon Pa took Cab and I to the Hippodrome 
where we saw a fine show. It is a large and 
handsome theater, and has an arena as well 
as a stage. The arena is on the floor in the 
center of the house. The entertainment con- 
sisted of vaudeville, circus, and museum acts, 
and a big spectacle called "The Flood." The 
stage is lowered and the arena forms a big 
tank which holds three hundred thousand gal- 
lons of water. About a hundred people, 
horses, cattle, sheep, and dogs, are utilized. 
The stage was fixed up like a village, with a 
mountain in the background, a house and 
bridge in the foreground. A shower takes 
place, a dam bursts, and house, bridge, cattle, 
sheep, people and all are swept away. It was 
thrilling and realistic. After the show we 

47 



48 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

drove over to the St. Ermins Hotel to say 
good-by to the teachers, as they leave for Paris 
to-night. Pa, Cab, and I went to the Empire 
Theater to-night and saw the best vaudeville 
show yet. The ballet "Coppelia" was better 
than "L' Amour" at the Alhambra. 




An excursion boat on the River Thames. 




A lonely funeral procession in Rome. 



c 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Friday, July 20, 1906. 

AB and I spent the morning riding about 
the city. We also had a delightful sail on 
the Thames. Boarding the steamer Charles 
Lamb at the Charing Cross Pier for Chelsea, 
ten miles up the river, we passed many inter- 
esting places, including the Parliament build- 
ings, London Pottery Works, St. Thomas 
Hospital, Battersea Park, Pumping Station, 
and Lambeth Palace. The Archbishop of 
Canterbury lives at Lambeth Palace, and 
it was there that the late Queen Victoria 
was sleeping when she was awakened and 
informed of her elevation to the throne 
of England. The steamer ride cost four 
cents. 

We bought return tickets on the steamer 
Alert. The river steamers are about 130 feet 
long, 30 feet beam and have a 250 horse- 
power engine, which drives them about sixteen 

49 



50 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

miles an hour. The excursions are cheaper 
than bus rides. 

Returning to the hotel we met Papa and he 
decided an auto ride would be a good thing, 
and so we went out for two hours. We headed 
for Regent's Park and rode all around this 
beautiful place, and then climbed Hampstead 
Hill, the highest point in London, and from 
which we obtained a splendid view of the city 
and suburbs. We were forty-five minutes 
from the Strand and it looked good to me. 

On the way back we passed by the spar- 
yards and the house where Dick Turpin was 
supposed to have been imprisoned, and from 
which he escaped through a window, mounted 
a horse in readiness for him and rode away to 
freedom. I observed to-day how common it 
was to see men wearing overcoats and women 
wearing furs in the summer time. 

After we got back to the Cecil, Pa went out 
in a hansom on a business call and met with a 
severe accident. The horse slipped and fell, 
breaking the shafts and throwing Papa for- 
ward with great force against his knees, the 
hansom top striking him upon the head at the 
same time. He was badly shaken up and 
considerably bruised. He required the atten- 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 51 

tion of a doctor. We have just got through 
packing and leave for Paris in the morning, 
in spite of the fact that Papa is pretty badly 
hurt. 




London Bridge, showing dome of St. Paul's in the distance. 




The Tower Bridge in London. 



A 



HOTEL CONTINENTAL, PARIS, 

Saturday, July 21, 1906. 

T 9 a.m. sharp, the Southeastern and 
Chatham Express left Charing Cross 
station for Dover — we were on it. The ride 
was the most beautiful I have ever taken on a 
train. We passed down through the " Garden 
of England," which is the popular name for the 
Shire of Kent. The farms and orchards were 
splendidly kept and the little towns looked 
very pretty. We arrived at Dover at 10.45, 
and on the way passed through nine long 
tunnels. The train fetched up on the Ad- 
miralty Pier. The steamer did not leave until 
11.25, and I put in the time taking pictures. 
This is the pier Pete started from when he 
swam across the English channel in July, 1906. 
It must have been a tough trip for him — he 
was in the water 15 hours and 10 minutes. 

The trip across the channel was an excep- 
tional one, for it was smooth and consequently 

53 



54 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

pleasant. Arrived at Calais, France, at 12.40, 
and at 1.15 left on the North of France Special 
for Paris. We had lunch on the train. The 
ride to Paris was not as enjoyable as we ex- 
pected — the country was not very attractive 
looking, there being much low land and 
swampy fields. It was 4.45 when we arrived 
in the French capital. Baggage inspected, we 
took a cab to the Continental. 

My first impression was the lack of hansoms 
and the great number of victorias, the hand- 
some buildings and broad avenues, and the 
sidewalk cafes. We didn't like our rooms at 
the Continental and so we went up to the 
Elysee Palace Hotel on the Champs Elysee 
near the Arc de Triomphe. We will move 
in there to-morrow. 

After dinner, Cab and I drove over to the 
Hotel Dijon on the Rue Caumartin, where the 
teachers are stopping. They were not at 
home when we arrived, so we left our cards and 
walked over to the Olympia Theater. Papa 
met an interpreter there whom he had known 
when he was over here three years ago. Dur- 
ing the intermission we walked all over the 
theater, and it was very different from any- 
thing I had ever seen before. Half of the 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 55 

orchestra was a promenade and was filled with 
small drinking-tables. There were a lot of 
women there who are called the "demi- 
monde," whatever that means. 

Then we went down into the Olympia 
Tavern, the largest cafe in Paris and which 
has the longest bar in Europe. It is closed 
all day, but opened from six at night until six 
o'clock in the morning. It is the resort of 
carousing men and women. Then we visited 
the American Cafe and the Cafe de Paris, both 
on the same order as the Olympia. We got 
back to our hotel about midnight. Before our 
courier left, Papa made arrangements with 
him to show Cab and me around the city, 
starting in Monday morning at nine. 

On turning into my bed to-night after seeing 
for the first time some of the sights of Paris, 
there comes over me a feeling of gladness that 
I am an American. 



J* 


. 


■-. ■■; ■ — 
■ 1 ■■* ** T — - " - . . » T""' •'i*" *^*i """u"* 






i 



Birdseye view of Paris, made from the Eifel Tower, in Paris. 




Birdseye view of the River Seine, made from the Eifel 
Tower, in Paris. 



HOTEL CONTINENTAL, PARIS, 

Sunday, July 22, 1906. 

WE slept until 11.30 this morning. After 
breakfast we drove to the Eiffel Tower, 
the highest structure in the world. It is 1000 
feet high, made of steel, and three different 
elevators are used in getting to the top. The 
first makes two stops, the first stop being 100 
feet from the ground. There is a theater, res- 
taurant, and bar there. At the second stop I 
got some fine bird's-eye views of Paris with my 
camera. From the top the view over Paris 
was grand. The people on the streets looked 
like ants. From the tower we drove over Alex- 
andre's bridge, a magnificent structure, and 
around the city for an hour. Then we had 
dinner and drove over to the Hotel Dijon and 
found the teachers. Dr. Clara Fitzgerald, 
of Worcester, Mass., a friend of Miss 
Sharry's, was visiting her. We were formally 
made acquainted. The doctor is taking a 

57 



58 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

post-graduate course at the University of 
Paris. 

Miss Sharry, Dr. Fitzgerald, and Papa went 
for a drive, and Miss Cass, Miss Rosnosky, 
Cab, and myself went for a walk, bus ride, 
boat ride on the Seine, and a walk through the 
Louvre and thegardens. We also drove through 
the Rue de Rivoliand the Place de la Concorde, 
the largest square in the world, where over 
thirty-seven thousand people were guillotined 
during the French Revolution, up through the 
Champs Elysee around the Arc de Triomphe. 
It was midnight when we got back to our hotel. 



ELYSEE PALACE HOTEL, PARIS, 

Monday, July 23, 1906. 

WE moved in here early this morning, and 
found our courier Romeli waiting for us. 
Pa stayed at the hotel while Cab and I went 
out to see Paris. We first visited the Place 
Vendome, and saw the column with a statue 
of Napoleon on top. The column is made of 
melted guns captured in the Napoleonic wars. 
Then we visited the Bastile Column, erected 
in memory of the Revolution, through the Rue 
de Rivoli to the City Hall, Palace of Justice, 
Hotel Dieu, police courts, fire headquarters, 
Cluny Museum, St. George's statue, Mont- 
martre, and the Latin quarter, where we had 
lunch. 

Then we drove to the tomb of Napoleon. 
Before entering the Hotel des Invalides, where 
the tomb of "the little Corporal" is, I bought 
some postals and a souvenir bust of Napoleon. 
The tomb is a wonderful thing to see and it is 

59 



60 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

odd in many respects. We all bowed when 
looking upon it, for it sets down deep in a sort 
of amphitheater. In the building are also 
the tombs of his brother, General Duraut, 
Duroc, King Gerome, and his wife. The altar 
where the burial service took place is very 
pretty and the chapel is full of captured flags 
which hang from the balconies. Next we 
visited the church of the Madelaine, Notre 
Dame and the Morgue. In the charnel house 
were the bodies of three men, an old woman, and 
a young girl awaiting identification. 

It didn't take us long to see enough of the 
morgue. Then we went down by the many 
department buildings, the Automobile Club, 
St. Augustine's Church, and to Cleopatra's 
Needle, which stands in the center of the Place 
de la Concorde. The Granin Museum of Wax- 
Works was next visited. Then we drove by 
the residence of Major Dreyfus and out to 
Pre Catalin, where the society people of Paris 
go for their afternoon teas. We got a good 
idea of the swell tea gardens and came back to 
the hotel. 

With the courier, Cab ana I had dinner at 
the Olympia Tavern and then drove to the 
Moulin Rouge and saw a good vaudeville 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 61 

show. After the show we visited a cafe called 
"Heaven." When we came out it was rain- 
ing and we got drenched in going to the " Cafe 
of the Dead." It is a gruesome affair. 
Drinks are served on the tops of coffins and the 
walls are covered with human skeletons, bones, 
and queer pictures. In the anterooms we saw 
some queer illusions. It was almost 2 a.m. 
when we got back to the Elysee Palace Hotel. 
It was some time before I could get to sleep, 
however, on account of the sights I had seen. 



ELYSEE PALACE HOTEL, PARIS, 

Tuesday, July 24, 1906. 

WE left the hotel at 10 a.m. with the 
courier, for a day at Versailles. Papa 
was in bed when we left; his knees are giving 
him a great deal of trouble. The train left 
at 11.20, and after a very pretty ride of forty- 
five minutes we arrived in Versailles. We 
drove to the Petit Trianon where Queen Marie 
Antoinette lived, and went all through the 
palace and stables and saw the royal carriages, 
sleighs, and harnesses. 

When looking at Napoleon's carriage we 
met the teachers. The carriage is the same 
one the present Czar of Russia rode in when 
he drove through Paris some years ago. In 
the Grand Trianon we visited the apartments 
of King Louis XIV, the apartments of Na- 
poleon I, his billiard room and the apartments 
especially fitted up for the late Queen Victoria 
of England, but she never saw them. 

63 



64 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

Lunched at the Napoleon Cafe, and then 
visited the Royal Palace and Gardens and 
saw all the beautiful fountains, which are 
used only on the first Sundays of the summer 
months. In the picture gallery in the palace 
were beautiful paintings by Gernex, Le Baron, 
Gerard, Vernet, and others. These gardens 
and the Royal Palace were designed and built 
under Louis XIV. Leaving Versailles at five, 
we reached Paris at six o'clock. We had 
dinner at the hotel, and stayed in to-night, as 
we were tired out. 



ELYSEE PALACE HOTEL, PARIS, 

Wednesday, July 25, 1906. 

WE finished up with our courier Romeli 
to-day. This morning he took Cab 
and me to the Louvre, the greatest picture 
gallery in the world — it was built by the 
great Napoleon. It is surrounded by beauti- 
ful avenues, lanes, fountains, and statues. 
The Louvre has some fine Roman sculptuary 
and vases, the original Venus de Milo, statues 
of Mercury, Mars, Romulus, Remus, Venus, 
Horatius, and of famous Greek and Roman 
mythological people. In the picture galleries 
are paintings by Rubens, Van Dyck, Snyder, 
Jordaens, Champaigne, Rembrandt, Murillo, 
Panini, Lethiere, Millet, Vernet, David 
Canture, Turner, Gras, Lebrun, Valentine, 
Raphael and others. 

From the Louvre we journeyed to the Palace 
of the Senate and the Church of the Pantheon, 
and then had lunch. Then we walked along 

65 



66 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

the St. Germain Boulevard and St. Michael to 
Cluny Museum, the oldest in Paris. The 
building was built for a palace in the year 
1000. It is full of relics of battles. 

The oldest church in Paris, the Church of 
the Holy Louis, was visited, and we saw the 
finest stained glass windows in Europe. We 
passed the Chatelet Theater and Sarah Bern- 
hardt's theater, which are on the banks of the 
Seine and opposite each other — they are the 
largest theaters in Paris — and through the 
market, the Du Louvre, the largest depart- 
ment store in Europe, and then up the Champs 
Elysee to our hotel. 

After dinner we drove to the Hotel Dijon 
and met Walter and Pete, who were calling on 
the teachers. Miss Cass and I went out for a 
drive, leaving Pete, Walter, and Cab to enter- 
tain the girls. The teachers leave for Geneva, 
Switzerland, in the morning, and thence to 
Lucerne, Germany, Belgium, Holland, and 
back to God's country. 



ELYSEE PALACE HOTEL, PARIS, 

Thursday, July 26, 1906. 

READ the morning New York Herald 
Paris edition, and found lengthy notice 
about ourselves and Pete and Walter. I put 
in part of the morning riding and in taking 
snap-shots; with Pete and Walter in the after- 
noon, also Dr. Fitzgerald and a Hollandaise 
nurse, Mile. Emile Gayras. The doctor and 
nurse accompanied Papa to the hospital to 
have his injured knees examined, and Pete, 
Walter, Cab, and I took a drive to the Eiffel 
Tower and Ferris Wheel. The ride in the 
Ferris Wheel was just simply great. 

We had dinner at a sidewalk cafe near the 
Palace de Machines. Returned to the hotel. 
Papa, being unable to proceed further on 
account of his illness, has made a proposition 
to Pete to take us along with him on his swim- 
ming tour, which will embrace Switzerland, 
Italy, Island of Corfu, Greece and Turkey, 

67 



68 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

returning overland through Turkey, Bulgaria, 
Roumania, Servia, Hungary, Austria, Ger- 
many, Holland, and back to London. Papa is 
obliged to remain in Paris while his knees are 
healing and he wants us to enjoy ourselves. 

We like Pete and his friend Walter and hope 
they will agree to take us along, for we will 
then visit Lucerne, Switzerland, Como, Milan, 
Florence, Rome, Naples, Brindisi in Italy, 
the Island of Corfu, Patras and Athens in 
Greece, and Constantinople in Turkey. Pa and 
Pete will settle the matter to-morrow. The 
weekly "Students' Ball" was held to-night at 
Montmartre — we wanted to attend but Pa 
said "Nay." The public schools of Paris 
close this week for the annual six weeks' 
vacation. 















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jlj^PpUHH 









Elysee Palace Hotel in Paris. 




Cleopatra's Needle in the Place de la Concord, in Paris. 



ELYSEE PALACE HOTEL, PARIS, 

Friday, July 27, 1906. 

I VISITED the Western Union Cable Office 
on an errand for Pa this morning, wrote 
letters and read. After lunch Pete and Walter 
called and the final arrangements were made for 
Cab and myself to make the swimming trip 
with them. Just as soon as Pa agreed to let us 
go, Pete, Cab, and I went to Cook's office on 
the Avenue de l'Opera and bought our tickets 
through to Constantinople, and I went to the 
Eastman Kodak office in the Place Vendome 
and bought twenty films of twelve exposures 
each to take along. 

After dinner we all went to the Jardin de 
Paris and saw a good vaudeville show. Dur- 
ing the intermission there was a special exhibi- 
tion of can-can dancing and other French 
dances near the bandstand. A "French qua- 
drille" seemed to be the most popular of the 
dances. These dancers would be arrested if 

69 



70 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

they were in America. We saw all there was 
to be seen at the Jardin de Paris, and more than 
we had expected to see. 

When we got back to the hotel Pete wrote a 
letter to a Boston newspaper, while Walter 
related the story of his life to Pa, Cab, and me in 
the next room. Walter has had many experi- 
ences and adventures. He was born in Win- 
chester, England, and when a little boy ran 
away from home and joined the navy. He 
was in five shipwrecks, saw real war, traveled 
all over the world as a sailor, and came to 
America when he was eighteen years old. He 
has been an actor, a hotel detective and a 
courier. He played at the Castle Square 
Theater in Boston at one time. 



HOTEL METROPOLE, LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND, 

Saturday, July 28, 1906. 

PETE, Walter, Cab and I waved good-by 
to Pa as we left the Eastern Station in Paris 
at 8.45 this morning. The ride through 
France was beautiful — the farms were pic- 
tures. We went through Alsace and Lorraine, 
and when we crossed the German border the 
customs officers came on board the train and 
examined our baggage. 

The houses along the line all had red roofs 
and were very pretty. At Altkirch we saw a 
lock canal and a boat going up it. Bale was 
the first place of any size we stopped at. We 
stopped at Mulhouse, too, for a few moments 
and then went direct to Lucerne. On this 
stretch there were thirteen cars on the train 
and two engines. We traveled through the 
mountains and villages at a fast rate. 

The scenery in Switzerland is the most 
charming I have ever seen. The mountains 

71 



72 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

are high and very beautiful. They are covered 
with trees, with a few houses on the tops of some 
of them, gardens along the bottom, villages in 
the valleys and rivers, lakes, or canals between 
the larger mountains. We passed a great 
many, the tops of which were above the clouds. 
At Alton we saw the River Rhine for the 
first time. I could jump across it, it was so 
narrow. We were close to its source. Alton 
is a manufacturing city and railroad center. 
The train made a circuit of the city. 

Before reaching Lucerne we followed along 
by a big lake for a few miles. We arrived at 
Lucerne at 8.20, after riding over eleven hours. 
We were very tired, but as soon as we got 
something to eat we went out to see the city. 
Schumann's big circus, the biggest in Europe, 
was playing there, and we went in to see it. It 
has about 200 horses and 100 people. It was 
a laugh to Pete, who has been the press agent 
for the Barnum & Bailey, Forepaugh and 
Sells circuses and other big shows. 

We walked for several miles around Lake 
Geneva. It is simply beautiful. The moun- 
tains are grand and the people are fine. I'd 
like to live here for the summer anyhow. I 
think it might be lonesome in the winter. We 







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Cab and I at the summit of the Eifel Tower, in Paris. 




Vendome Column in Paris. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 73 

leave in the morning for Italy, and in the after- 
noon Pete will swim Lake Como. 

I hate to leave Lucerne The hotels are 
fine, there are nice steamboats, electric cars, 
cabs, and modern improvements are more 
common than in London and Paris. The 
police, soldiers and bellboys all look better, 
dress better, and are better. The Swiss trains 
are fine, the compartments being large, bright, 
airy, and comfortable. Switzerland is all to 
the good. 



w 



HOTEL CAMPIDOGLIO, ROME, ITALY, 

Monday, July 30, 1906. 
ITH regrets we left Lucerne at 9.45 yes- 



terday morning. I hope to visit it again, 
however. Before eleven o'clock we saw snow- 
capped mountains with the clouds hanging 
all around them. When we got to Ertsfeld 
the sun was high up and the clouds had risen 
higher up above the mountain-tops, making a 
beautiful day for sightseeing. The scenery 
was superb. The valleys, rivers, waterfalls, 
rapids among those stately mountains made 
beautiful bits and the quaint little houses added 
to it all. Every window on the train was 
occupied by two heads looking at the scenery. 
There would have been four if there had been 
room for them. 

At Galonen we made a twenty minutes' stop 
and everybody bought some lunch. At Airo- 
los we lingered for a few minutes, shifted some 
cars and took on another engine before enter- 

75 



76 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

ing the great St. Gothard Tunnel. We were 
from 12.57 until 1.10 passing through the big 
hole in the mountain, and when we came out of 
it we were thousands of feet up in the air and 
traveling at high speed. We were actually 
up in the clouds. At Bellingana the moun- 
tains were very high, but had no snow on them 
and few trees. Here we began to see the 
vineyards and a change of temperature was 
noticeable for we were now in Italy. At 
Chiasso we had our baggage examined — it 
was the first stop in Italy. 

We arrived at Como at 4.35, checked our 
baggage at the station and walked down into 
the town, which is beautifully situated on the 
borders of the lake. We boarded a steamer, 
sailed up to Menaggio and Pete started from 
there on a six-mile swim to Bellano, which he 
covered in a little over three hours. It was 
almost dark when he finished. Cab and I 
swam a few hundred yards with him. It was 
cold, for the waters came from the glaciers 
melting on the mountains. Pete beat Byron's 
record on the swim by over a mile. 

We got back to Como in time to catch the 
9.30 train for Milan, Florence, and Rome. 
We had lunch at the Hotel Metropole before 




OS 



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a, 






A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 77 

boarding the train. There is an inclined rail- 
way running up the mountain side at Como, 
and up on the top there is a large hotel. The 
trees and stone walls in Como are covered 
with lizards, and we saw white ants there an 
inch long. The night was fearfully hot and 
the ride to Milan was a tough one. A young 
lieutenant of the Italian cavalry occupied the 
compartment with us and was a jolly good 
fellow. He could talk English and he sang 
several songs and told stories. He was twenty- 
one years old and splendidly educated. He 
could talk five languages. He wore a very 
pretty uniform — a green jacket trimmed with 
black, gray trousers, leggings and green cap. 
He carried his saber and revolver. 

We arrived at Milan at 10.40. The train 
there was made up to fourteen cars and three 
engines. There were eight in our compart- 
ment and it was tough trying to get to sleep 
comfortably in that little space. But we got 
there just the same, for we were so tired we 
could sleep on a clothesline. Pete slept with 
one eye open, for he felt the responsibility he 
had in having Cab and myself with him. 
When we woke up it was broad daylight and 
we were making fast time towards Rome. 



78 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

When I looked out of the window the moun- 
tains and beautiful valleys were not to be seen, 
yet the view was beautiful. I took about 
twenty little naps during the morning. It was 
terrifically hot and we were covered with coal 
dust. We were grimy, to say the least. 

We reached the "Eternal City" at 1.30 
p.m., a half hour late. We were driven to 
the Hotel Campidoglio on the Courso Um- 
berto — splendidly located, right in the very 
heart of the city and only a few minutes from 
the interesting points. It was never hotter 
in the jungles of equatorial Africa than it is 
here. Gee, but it's awful! After the sun 
slid down the western sky towards the horizon 
we went out for a walk, visited Cook's office 
and the post-office. Pete got a letter at the 
post-office and Walter got one at Cook's office. 
We got back to the hotel and enjoyed a fine 
Italian supper. 

Supper over, we addressed a few postals, had 
a bath and went to bed. I think I was asleep 
before I got into bed. Pete and Walter went 
out to call on some newspaper men and make 
arrangements for the Tiber swim. 

Rome is a very busy town from five to nine 
in the evening — everybody seems to be out 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 79 

on the streets during these hours enjoying the 
cool of the evening. Victorias are cheap in 
Rome, but automobiles are as scarce as hen's 
teeth. 



w 



HOTEL CAMPIDOGLIO, ROME, ITALY, 

Tuesday, July 31, 1906. 
E had a fine night's rest and were ready 



to go sightseeing at eight o'clock. We 
visited Cook's first for mail and roamed 
around until the intense heat became danger- 
ous, then we went back to the hotel. It's 
wonderful how cool the interiors of the build- 
ings are. This is because there is a courtyard 
in all of them and a fountain in every court- 
yard. The curtains and blinds are kept drawn 
all day to shut out the heat, and at night are all 
wide open to let in the cool air. 

After lunch we wrote letters and took a 
siesta. About four o'clock it grew cooler and 
we had another sightseeing stroll. There were 
four students from the University of Tennessee 
stopping at the hotel, and after dinner we went 
with them to the old Coliseum. It was dark 
before we got there, but the moon was shining 
brilliantly from a clear sky, and we saw the 

81 



82 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

grand old ruin just as I had seen it pictured 
in magazines. Once I saw a painting just 
like it. Every part of it was pointed out to 
us. We got up into Nero's box and looked 
down into the amphitheater, where so many 
thousands of Christians had been slaughtered. 

It was weird there, and as we listened to 
Pete's thrilling description of the scenes that 
took place there we felt nervous — he had us 
all worked up. He pointed out the moon and 
said it was the same old moon which shone 
down upon the martyrs and which inspired 
them to die heroically. The gallery of the 
vestal virgins, the pits for the wild animals, the 
prisons of the victims, were all interesting — 
fearfully so. What bloodthirsty wretches Nero 
and his nobles must have been! What a ter- 
rible arena that was! It is infested now with 
blood-red bugs, ants, fleas, and big lizards. 
It is a wonderful piece of architecture and the 
seating capacity must have been enormous. 
Pete stepped the distance off between the walls 
and figured it out that the Coliseum would seat 
about seventy-five thousand people. 

While we were at the Coliseum a number of 
Americans — there must have been forty — 
came into the ruins. They belonged to the 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 83 

Travelers' Club of New York. When Pete 
saw them coming in through one of the arches, 
he started up a regular circus "bally-hoo" 
and woke up the echoes of the ruins with 
" Right this way to the big show — the per- 
formance is about to commence!" The visi- 
tors bolted for us on the dead run when they 
heard that good United States English, and we 
had a pleasant chat with them. A fellow from 
East Boston in the party knew Pete. Every- 
where we go he meets somebody whom he 
knows or who knows him. 

From the Coliseum we went to the Piazza 
Colonna and listened to a concert by a military 
band of fifty-five pieces. From what I have 
seen of Rome I think it is a clean city, has 
plenty of hotels, and a fine place to visit except 
in the summer. The soldiers, police, and 
people look good, to me — there are plenty of 
electric lights, tropical trees, plants, etc., and 
there is also an abundance of mosquitoes, fleas, 
bugs, and insects. 




A village in Switzerland. 




The mountains of Switzerland. 



HOTEL CAMPIDOGLIO, ROME, ITALY, 

Wednesday, August 1, 1906. 

WE were up at six o'clock this morning, 
and after breakfast we left the hotel in 
company with Pietro Gracia, the manager of 
the Hotel Campidoglio, and boarding an electric 
rode to the Canothieri aniene, the Royal Boat 
Club of Italy. King Vittori Emanuel is an 
active member. The president of the club 
is the Marquis Calabrini. The club-house is 
on the Arno, the upper Tiber. Pete stripped in 
the club-house and donned his swimming togs, 
and, after the whole party was photographed, 
we got into a punt and were rowed down the 
river about two miles, passing under several 
bridges. At one point, in the bend of the 
river, we got a magnificent view of St. Peter's 
and the round tower of Castle St. Angelo. We 
passed ruined castles, monasteries, convents, 
etc., which have been standing for centuries, 
and whose walls are moss-grown. Moving 

85 



86 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

down the stream we passed under Margherita, 
Canone, Umberto, Vittorie Emanuelle, Giani- 
Coleuse, Ponta Vitto, Garibaldi, the Fabricius, 
Teattre Cipi, the Punta Lublicia and Palatini 
bridges. 

Down by the Ponta Rotta, the ruins of the 
Lublicia, where Horatius defended the bridge, 
and opposite the Maxima Chaca Massina — 
this sounds pretty but it is a great big sewer — 
Pete plunged in and swam across to the oppo- 
site shore and back again. Then he went 
down stream to where Csesar and Byron 
swam, and went across there and back and 
then continued down the river about two 
miles. He swam like a fish, and the thou- 
sands on the bridges cut loose in cheers and 
applause. They couldn't understand how he 
could swim with his head under water — he 
swam the side-stroke. Pete knew why after 
the swim. The Tiber is the dirtiest stream 
that flows. Pete was almost poisoned from 
it. It's a great big sewer. The current is 
very swift, running about eight or nine miles 
an hour. The water is a sickly gray color. 
Pete made Caesar, Horatius, and Byron look 
like thirty cents — he swam the whole business, 
all the courses combined and doubled, in 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 87 

the time it took one of them to swim one 
way. 

There was an interesting incident, "not 
down on the program," as Pa would say, just 
as we were ready for the swim. The Palatini 
bridge was crowded with people, when all of 
a sudden a big cry went up and, looking round, 
we saw the body of a young man shooting into 
the waters — he had jumped from the bridge, 
a height of at least eighty feet. He was crazed 
from heat and too much liquor. A Roman 
boatman named Pietro Speidotti leaped from 
his punt to the rescue and caught the drowning 
lad. Both were swept down the stream. 
Pete swam to his assistance, but Speidotti had 
reached a low stone wall before Pete got to 
him. Walter Critchell, Cab, and I jumped 
into Speidotti's punt and pulled over to them. 
It was exciting for a few moments. The 
young man who attempted suicide was turned 
over to the police and there were cheers for 
everybody. Somebody said "it was a great 
demonstration." 

After the swim we went back to the hotel 
where Pete took a bath in sulpho-naphthol — 
I guess he needed it. After lunch we went 
over to the Coliseum to see it in daylight and 



88 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

get some pictures. Late in the afternoon we 
went down with Pietro Gracia to the boat-club 
and saw the Italian champion oarsman Bre- 
nalti in his shell — he did some special rowing 
for us — and also the champion eight-oared 
crew. We met the members, were enter- 
tained, and I made a number of photos. One 
room in the club-house is filled with trophies 
won by club members. In the evening we 
went to a band concert by Italy's best band, 
and visited the newspaper offices. 




Hotel Metropole in Lucerne, Switzerland. 




Lake Geneva in Switzerland. 



HOTEL METROPOLE, NAPLES, 

Thursday, August 2, 1906. 

OUR last day in Rome we were up with 
the sun and out for the sights. We 
drove over to St. Peter's and the Vatican. I 
can't begin to write what I would like to about 
St. Peter's — there is nothing in the world so 
grand and beautiful and costly. I thought 
St. Paul's in London was " It," but it isn't in it 
for a minute — it's like a lead nickel 'long- 
side of a twenty-dollar gold piece. It would 
take a week to see it properly. 

And the Vatican, Gee! there's no end to it. 
There are miles and miles of corridors — it 
is the largest building in the world. The Pope 
lives there and has magnificent gardens. In 
one corner of it there is a museum of ten 
thousand statues and most magnificent paint- 
ings. While in St. Peter's we were present at 
a mass in one of the chapels and heard the 
world-famous male sanctuary choir sing. It 

89 



90 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

was great. There were about forty cardinals 
and archbishops at the mass. It was an 
impressive service. We went back into the 
Vatican, having met the three Heldmeyer 
sisters from Cleveland, with whom we be- 
came acquainted on the train coming from 
Switzerland, and while we were in there we 
met a priest, who was staying at our hotel, 
and Pete fixed it up with him so that we had 
the honor of meeting the Pope. 

We were ushered into the presence of the 
Holy Father in a private chapel in the Vatican. 
There were nineteen persons at the reception. 
The Pope looked well, but was very pale. He 
wore robes of spotless white, and with his 
snow-white hair and pale face he looked like a 
spirit. I never felt so solemn in my life. From 
the Vatican we made a brief visit to the Cata- 
combs and then went back to the hotel for 
lunch. In the afternoon we went to Cook's 
office and I got a letter from Papa, in which he 
said he had improved greatly — it was good 
news to us for we were fretting about him. 

At seven o'clock we left Rome for Naples. 
We were accompanied by the four students 
from Tennessee and had a compartment in the 
train to ourselves. Pete was going to lick a 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 91 

grafter at the station in Rome who wanted a 
franc because he opened the door in the railway 
carriage — he wasn't asked to do it. He was 
an impudent guy and thought he could brow- 
beat us because he had three or four others 
with him, but it didn't go for a cent and he 
was lucky that he didn't get licked good and 
plenty. 

It was a hot ride of five hours to Naples. 
We arrived at midnight. We hired three 
victorias to take us to the hotel, which is a 
drive of about three miles, and the teams raced 
all the way, making great sport for us. We 
got a general idea of Naples and the beautiful 
bay on the ride, for the moon was shining 
brilliantly. Vesuvius was steaming up too, 
which to us was the greatest thing that ever 
happened. When we got to the hotel we 
learned that fifty-six people left it the day 
before, fearful of the eruption of the burning 
mountain. 

It was a terribly hot night, and, as the beach 
was within fifty yards of the hotel, we all had 
a dip in the Bay of Naples by moonlight at 
2 a.m., with Vesuvius burning quite brightly 
across the waters. That's going some. 




At Corfu many row boats swarmed about our ship to take 
us ashore. 




A view of Lake Como, Italy. 



HOTEL METROPOLE, NAPLES, 

Friday, August 3, 1906. 

AFTER several hours' struggle to get sleep, 
and tired from battling with mosquitoes 
and fleas, we got up about seven o'clock and 
made preparations for our trip to Brindisi on 
the east coast of Italy. We went out and saw 
something of Naples. We were not favorably 
impressed. The air wasn't good and it was 
awfully hot. There are beggars everywhere. 
The only thing I like about Naples is the bay — 
it is beautiful and the waters are not like the 
Tiber. I will be glad when we board the 
train for Brindisi. Vesuvius is steaming up 
pretty lively. Will write a letter home and 
one to Pa and call my visit here at an end. 



HOTEL INTERNATIONALE, BRINDISI, ITALY, 

Friday, August 3, 1906. 

GOT awayfrom Naples and its beggars and 
its hotel grafters at noon, thank heavens ! 
Our train passed Vesuvius near enough to get 
a good look at it. It's great, and a new one on 
me. We passed through very rich farming 
country for over one hundred miles out of 
Naples. The trip was hot, but not as dirty as 
other runs we made in Italy. Late in the 
afternoon we reached the eastern coast and 
the air became clear and cool and the scenery 
improved. Here we got our first glimpse of 
the Adriatic Sea. The houses were very at- 
tractive, most of them having flat roofs and 
gardens on top where the people sit at night 
and enjoy the cool air. 

We arrived in Brindisi about ten o'clock and 
after a drive of about a mile we got to our 
hotel, which is situated on the water front. 
The city is much cleaner than Naples. We 

05 



96 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

found the steamer we are to sail on for Patras, 
Greece, right in front of our hotel. The har- 
bor is small but rather pretty. We had a stroll 
about the city and to the flower market, and 
even though it was late there were many people 
about, and at every other house somebody was 
playing some kind of a musical instrument. 
We expect an interesting night on account of 
fleas and mosquitoes which flourish here. We 
have been assigned to the same rooms in our 
hotel which were occupied in 1896 by Tom 
Burke, Jimmy Connolly, and other Boston 
athletes who won the championships at the 
Olympic, and by those who represented 
America at the games at Athens this year. 




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Walls of the Vatican, 




By the side of a cool fountain in Rome. 



HOTEL INTERNATIONALE, BRINDISI, ITALY, 

Saturday, August 4, 1906. 

A TERRIBLE night — fleas, mosquitoes, 
roosters crowing, monastery bells ring- 
ing, intense heat, etc., and then the beastly 
European breakfast of coffee and tough biscuit. 
We went to Cook's and the post-office, and then 
stowed away in the shady writing-room and 
wrote letters and addressed post-cards to our 
American friends. There is a pet monkey 
at the hotel and we had some fun playing with 
him. I photographed Walter while he was 
feeding the monk. 

After lunch Pete engaged an old boatman 
named Guadalupo to take us out for a sail 
and a swim. We went out by the entrance to 
the harbor and had an enjoyable dip in the 
Adriatic Sea. Pete did a lot of tricks and 
fancy swimming for us. The water was im- 
mense — it was warm but was very much 
more salty than it is in Boston Harbor. They 

97 



98 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

told us there were sharks and devil-fish about 
there, but we didn't see any of them and we 
were not disappointed either. 

We got back about seven o'clock, had a 
good supper and sat out in front of the hotel 
and talked with Manager Bianchi. Bianchi's 
brother-in-law manages the New Lexington 
Hotel in Boston — his name is Murochi — 
and when Bianchi found that Pete knew him 
he more than warmed up to us. We turned 
in about midnight to take another chance with 
the insects. 



HOTEL INTERNATIONALE, BRINDISI, ITALY, 

Sunday, August 5, 1906. 

AS there was nothing of special interest in 
this jumping-off place — it is simply a 
calling port for steamships bound east and 
west — we stayed about the hotel all day. 
During the afternoon we went aboard the 
Italian steamship Pelora to look over our state- 
rooms — we sail on it at midnight. She is a 
splendid vessel. We met several people who 
are to be passengers with us, among them a 
young Greek from New York City who con- 
ducts a linen store at 210 West Twenty-first 
Street. 

We sail at midnight. The moon is shining 
from a clear sky, and although the night is 
awfully hot we are consoled with the thought 
that the mosquitoes and fleas will not be with 
us. I begin to feel like we are ten thousand 
miles from home and that I've been away two 
or three years. 

99 

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ON BOARD THE ITALIAN S.S. PELORA, 

Monday, August 6, 1906. 

A FEW minutes before twelve last night the 
Pelora warped out from the quay and 
passed out by the ancient Castle of Barbarossa 
into the calm waters of the Adriatic Sea. There 
was a restfulness about it that I can't explain. 
We were free from the pests on shore. There 
wasn't a breath of wind nor a ripple on the 
waters. 

We left Boston a month ago to-day, but it 
seems two or three years — it's impossible to 
figure out how we have covered so much of the 
world and are so far away from home at this 
time. We sat up on deck until two this morn- 
ing and then turned in. We have a big four- 
berth stateroom, but it's tough trying to sleep 
in it on account of the heat. Pete tried it for 
an hour and then took the deck for his. Walter, 
Cab, and I took a Turkish bath in our berths. 

It is needless to say we were up early — the 
101 



102 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

sun was just rising up over Albania when we 
got on deck. During the night we had crossed 
the Straits of Otrento. I took off my coat, 
rolled up my sleeves, got a corner away up in 
the bow, and lodged myself there to view the 
panorama of scenery. We were headed for 
the Island of Corfu, a Greek possession which 
was ceded to them by England. We passed 
along the Alb anian shore for at least one hundred 
miles and into the Straits of Corfu. There 
was not a habitation of any kind in Albania — 
it is a mountainous, rock-bound coast. 

I found several Americans on board and 
some other passengers who could talk a little 
English. We got next to them quick and soon 
we were all engaged in conversation with them. 
The English language sounds mighty fine in 
this part of the world. Two men and a lady 
were from Warsaw, Wisconsin — one was 
superintendent of schools and another was 
professor of languages in the High School 
there. They knew some people in Boston that 
we know. 

We reached the town of Corfu about ten 
o'clock and anchored in its snug little harbor. 
Instantly there were one hundred rowboats 
around us ready to take passengers to the 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 103 

island, and a number of pedlers came aboard 
with souvenirs and fruits to sell. We were 
anchored for six hours. 

Being permitted to go ashore, we engaged 
a boat and were rowed up to a wharf. There 
we hired a team and had a two hours' drive 
over the beautiful island, and a sucking pig 
dinner to which we all did ample justice. And 
we had butter made from goat's milk — it 
looked like lard, but it was butter all right. 
The heat was frightful and we went in swim- 
ming in the cove where St. Paul was once ship- 
wrecked. The sea kicked up pretty lively by 
the time we got ready to return to the steamer, 
and we had an exciting time getting on board. 
The boat danced merrily and it was a bit 
desperate to make the gangway, but we made 
it all right, all right. 

At four o'clock the anchor was weighed and 
me moved down the coast through the Straits 
of Manso. At 5.30 we had a splendid dinner 
which was served on deck — it was a delight- 
ful novelty. We passed Sappho Point, where 
the goddess leaped into the sea, and the Island 
of Cephalonia. The scenery is very charming 
and the passengers very companionable. We 
will sleep on deck to-night, for the heat is fierce. 



A»*r*. 



S -"'-'mJf 



tit 



j. r 



i.*X:itM,M 




*6««r 



The old Coliseum in Rome. 




An interior view of the old Coliseum in Rome. 



HOTEL ST. GEORGE, ATHENS, GREECE, 

Tuesday, August 7, 1906. 

AT five this morning, we disembarked at 
Patras, Greece, had breakfast at a hotel, 
and boarded a train for Athens. At seven 
o'clock our train pulled out for an eight hour 
journey to Athens. That ride through the 
rich vineyards of Greece and along the Adri- 
atic Sea is worth coming from America, even 
in hot weather, to take. The Greeks have 
impressed us as being a fine people — they 
have been very courteous and hospitable. 

We passed over the great ship canal at 
Corinth, one of the wonders of the world. 
It unites the waters of the Adriatic and 
iEgean Seas. It is cut through a solid stone 
mountain, several miles long, and is 75 feet 
wide at the water, its walls towering 2000 
feet high. We passed over it on a suspen- 
sion bridge and into the great plain of Attica, 
up to the white city of Athens. The train 

105 



106 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

did some great mountain climbing along 
here. 

As we neared Athens, the view from the 
train was beautiful. There was the Acropolis, 
the Hill of Mars, where St. Paul preached, 
and the mount where Demosthenes first at- 
tracted attention as an orator. We arrived 
at Athens a little before five o'clock. When 
we got off the train the first thing we heard was 
— " This way, gentlemen, to the New York 
Hotel" — they were on to us as Americans 
from the start. The Hotel St. George had 
been recommended, so we got a carriage and 
drove up there. After dinner we walked 
down to Constitution Square, in front of the 
Royal Palace, and listened to a band concert. 

We had a chance to get a line on the Greek 
manners and customs and dress. The uni- 
forms of the Greek soldiers made a hit with 
me. It is a sort of ballet girl costume. The 
skirt, which is white, comes nearly to the 
knees, and plenty of under skirts are worn which 
show as they walk. The legs are encased in 
light-colored tights — there is a garter at each 
knee and the shoes are fancy and turned up at 
the toes, upon which are black rosettes. A 
kind of toga is worn on the shoulders, and on 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 107 

the head a red cap with a black tassel. They 
certainly look ludicrous to me. If they ap- 
peared at the Columbia in Boston on Friday 
night they would get the hook good and 
plenty. 

Constitution Square was thronged with 
people sitting around little tables taking liquid 
refreshment. The cafes were all doing a big 
business and the sidewalks in front of them 
were crowded with people, who also sat at 
tables taking refreshments. There was music 
everywhere. Athens is a gay city but not like 
Paris. When the concert was over, which is 
usually about nine o'clock, the people all went 
to their homes. I saw several priests of the 
Greek Catholic Church. They wear their 
hair long, some reaching to the waist, tied 
with a string just at the back of the neck, and 
are robed in black gowns. The first one I saw 
was a young man smooth-faced, and I was sure 
he was a woman. The horse-cars are queer 
looking and are drawn by two and three horses. 
The victorias have two horses, and fruit is 
peddled from baskets on the backs of burros, 
one hanging on each side. Sometimes there 
are as many as six baskets on one burro. There 
are no cows in Greece, but there are millions of 



108 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

goats which supply milk. Horses are few and 
mostly Albanians, which are as small as our 
ponies, but are very strong and tough. 

Our rooms at the St. George overlook the 
Palace of the Chamber of Deputies, which is 
the same as our Congress in the United States, 
and we have a good view of the Acropolis in 
the moonlight. I hope to sleep well to-night, 
although there are plenty of mosquitoes and 
fleas here. 




St. Peter's Cathedral in Rome. 




River Tiber in Rome — dome of St. Peter's in the distance. 



I 



HOTEL ST. GEORGE, ATHENS, GREECE, 

Wednesday, August 8, 1906. 

NSECT life was busy with us last night, so 
we were up early this morning. Pete and 
Walter look as if they had the measles — the 
bugs have been feeding on them for fair, but 
Cab and I have been playing in luck. After 
breakfast we hired a carriage for three hours 
and started out to see Athens. The post- 
office and Cook's were visited and we picked 
up some very welcome mail. 

The Acropolis is the big thing in Athens, so 
we headed there, driving through the Old 
Bazaar on the way. We hired a guide and 
went all over the historic ruins and through 
the museum. I took over sixty snap-shots of 
interesting things. We visited the Temple 
of Jupiter, the Parthenon, sat in the chair of 
Dionysius in the Temple of Bacchus, went into 
the prison of Socrates, the ruins of the first 
medical school in the world, founded by 

109 



110 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

iEsculapius, and into the amphitheater, after 
which all the amphitheaters in the medical 
colleges of the world are copied; drank water 
from a sacred spring in a rocky grotto where 
bulls were slaughtered in the old times for the 
great feasts, and ascending to the very summit 
viewed for miles the surrounding country so 
full of historic interest. 

Pete paralyzed us by telling the guide some 
things from history which he didn't know 
about the old ruins and about the people who 
lived in Athens in ancient times. We bought 
some souvenirs and then went over on the Hill 
of Mars and to the Forum of Demosthenes. 
Then we went up to the American Embassy, 
and Cab and I had passports made out so that 
we could get in and out of Turkey all right. 
We drove by the Royal Palace, House of Par- 
liament and other important buildings. The 
ride was a hot one. We are told that yester- 
day and to-day were the hottest known in 
Athens in years, and we believe it. 

After lunch we strolled along the banks of the 
river Illyssus. You would never know it was 
a river, for there was no water in it and heavy 
carts were being driven along its bed. They 
do say that it is a raging torrent in our winter 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 111 

season. We went through the Royal Gardens 
out to the Arch of Hadrian, and to the Stadium, 
where our American Athletes put the kibosh 
on the rest of the world. After dinner we 
went up on a high hill and looked over Athens 
at night, with the moonlight shining brightly 
— it was a great picture. We saw the first 
clouds since leaving the Alps almost two weeks 
ago. 

While I am writing my diary of to-day the 
mosquitoes are singing merrily around me and, 
judging from the noises coming from the next 
room, Pete and Walter are busier than they 
care to be — I'm sure they would prefer canary 
birds for their music. Poor old Athens ! Ruins 
everywhere. Crumbling monuments of past 
greatness ! 



HOTEL ST. GEORGE, ATHENS, GREECE, 

Thursday, August 9, 1906. 

WE took a long walk in the cool of this 
morning before breakfast, after which we 
drove out to Keratopyrgos, a peninsula which 
stretches out into the Straits of Salamis and 
overlooks the scene of the Battle of Salamis, 
in which six hundred Persian warships were 
destroyed by three hundred Greek warships. 
We all got into our swimming togs and were 
soon splashing around in the iEgean Sea. It 
wasn't any different from the Adriatic Sea or 
Boston Harbor, but it was the ^Egean Sea. 

It was a treat. The day was frightfully 
hot and the water was bully. The Island of 
Salamis was about a mile away, although it 
didn't look to be half that distance. Pete 
started away, swam across and around the 
island and back, making about four miles in 
all. Cab and I were in the water over three 
hours while Pete was making the swim. When 

113 



114 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

Pete got over to the island Walter got nervous 
and went up to "Xerxes Throne," at the top 
of a promontory, to watch Pete. While he 
was up there a native told him that the waters 
were full of sharks and devil fish, and it didn't 
make him feel any easier. He ordered Cab 
and myself to dress, but we didn't. When 
Pete was coming back, Cab and I swam out 
about 200 yards to meet him and raced 
him home. We beat him because he let 
us. 

After lunch we took a nap, for we were tired. 
About five o'clock we strolled down to Con- 
stitution Square, visited Cook's and got a letter 
from Papa. W r hile there we met four Mormon 
missionaries, one of whom was a passenger on 
the Arabic with us coming from America. We 
also met a friend from Germany, who sailed 
with us from Brindisi to Patras, and a Greek 
who has a candy store on Fifty-sixth Street, 
New York City. S. Avagyros, who originated 
the Egyptian Deity cigarettes and who made a 
fortune in America, sat near us while we were 
having an ice at one of the little tables. 

After dinner we drove out to the home of 
Sophocles, the famous Greek writer. Pete 
and Walter are again battling in the next room 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 115 

with the fleas and mosquitoes, and Cab, who 
could sleep on a clothesline, is breathing in 
sleep like a hippopotamus. The bugs don't 
bother him any. 




Our steamer was lying in sight of our hotel. 




On Board Italian S. S. "Pelora," en route to Patras, Greece. 



ON BOARD THE 'RUSSIAN STEAMSHIP EMPEROR 
NICHOLAS II, 

Friday, August 10, 1906. 

GRIPS were packed early this morning and 
after breakfast we got into a victoria and 
drove over to Piraeus, the ancient port of 
Athens, where we boarded this steamer. It 
was a drive of almost three hours. We passed 
through the poorer section of Athens and, let 
me say, the poor people in America live like 
kings compared to the poor people in the 
European countries. We saw many mud 
houses. The people live chiefly on bread, 
fruit, and wine. At Piraeus we were rowed 
out to our steamer. We had been told that 
the Russian steamer would be dirty and that 
the food would be bad, but it was just the 
opposite — it was simply great every way. 

The sail to-day has been most beautiful. We 
passed many islands and steamers and, with 
pleasant passengers, the time passed quickly 

117 



118 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

and pleasantly. A couple of young Russian 
students, who speak good English, have be- 
come our friends, and they told us much of 
life in Russia, of the strife and the trouble 
there. They live in Odessa and are on the 
way home from London, where they have been 
spending a couple of months with relatives. 
They told us that the Russian schools have 
been closed since the beginning of the Russo- 
Japanese war. We eat about every two hours 
on this ship, and have got acquainted with 
Russian tea with lemon in it and Turkish 
coffee, both of which are great. Cab and I 
will keep Mama and the cook busy when 
we get home, getting up some of the new tasty 
things for us. 

We played checkers with some of the Rus- 
sian officers this evening — they are splendid 
fellows and we sympathize with them that they 
should be ruled by such a tyrannical govern- 
ment. The sailors are fine looking fellows, 
too, and quite sociable. Some of them speak 
English. Russians and Russian steamships are 
all to the good. 



ON BOARD THE RUSSIAN STEAMSHIP EMPEROR 
NICHOLAS II, IN THE BOSPHORUS, 

Saturday, August 11, 1906. 

WE are nearing Constantinople. About 
four this morning we got up to be ready 
for inspection by the Turkish quarantine 
officers, and a little later we passed in through 
the famous Dardanelles, or ancient Hellespont. 
There are miles and miles of fortifications on 
both sides. Pete pointed out that a little 
American gun-boat came in through here a few 
years ago, in defiance of the Turkish author- 
ities, and startled the world. A fleet of the 
biggest battleships in the world would be at 
the mercy of the Turks in these waters. Pete 
is always pointing out something to make us 
proud that we are Americans, and we have 
reason to feel so. 

We passed up into the Sea of Marmora and 
then into the Bosphorus, which connects the 
Sea of Marmora with the Black Sea. Con- 

119 



120 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

stantinople is now in sight. It looks like a 
beautiful city, built in terraces, and all white 
with gilded mosques and red flags flying every- 
where. It looks like they were celebrating a 
holiday. I don't know how Constantinople 
is going to look when we get in the city, but 
from the harbor it is the finest ever. 

I must get my grips up and prepare to dis- 
embark. We will be taken off in boats. 




The old, historic buildings of Athens look like an 
earthquake had struck them. 







View of Corfu, from Italian S. S. "Pelora." 



ON THE ORIENTAL EXPRESS, BOUND WESTWARD, 

Sunday, August 12, 1906. 

LANDED in Constantinople yesterday 
afternoon about 4.30, after a twenty-eight 
hour sail from Piraeus, Greece. After we got 
by the customs, which are very strict, we hired 
a boat and Pete swam the Bosphorus from 
Pera — the Constantinople of to-day, Stam- 
boul is the old city — to Scutari in Asia Minor 
and back, about six miles. We followed him 
in a boat and swam the last quarter mile with 
him. He objected because we passed a num- 
ber of sharks during the afternoon on our way 
up the Bosphorus. However, they didn't 
bother us or I wouldn't be writing about it. 
The swim over, we got a victoria and 
drove to Cook's — it was after hours but 
Cook's man was waiting for us. He had our 
tickets ready so we left last night. We saw all 
of Constantinople in a few hours that we cared 
to see. It is horribly filthy, the streets are full 



121 



122 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

of sorry-looking dogs — there are thousands 
of them and there are millions of pigeons. 
The dogs and pigeons are held sacred, for the 
Turks believe in the transmigration of the 
soul — I've got an idea of what that means and 
will look into the matter deeper later on. It 
would go hard with any one to strike or kick 
one of the dogs. I've heard of the "unspeak- 
able Turk" and "as filthy as a Turk" and 
now I know what that means. 

They are the strongest men in the world, 
though. I saw men carrying crates and boxes 
there that would be a load for a horse, and I 
saw two men walking away with a grand 
square piano, carrying it between them as easy 
as two Americans would carry a valise. The 
streets are narrow, the women wear heavy 
veils on their faces, and the police carry long 
staffs which they pound on the street every 
few minutes to frighten off thieves. That's 
a funny trick — it would be a cinch for the 
thieves in America, for they would always 
know where the cops were. We drove over 
the worst old bridge in the world on our way 
to the railroad station and had to pay toll to 
cross it. It was like running tidlies on the ice 
when we went over it. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 123 

We had to give up two dollars apiece to the 
Chief of Police of Constantinople before he 
would indorse our passports so that we could 
leave the city. The Turks are great grafters, 
and we had already given up to the Turkish 
Consul General at Athens to fix this matter. 
The railroad station is the dirtiest kind of a 
station — we smelled it before we reached it. 
It has two smoking-rooms — one for men and 
the other for women, and both were crowded. 
I saw women smoking cigarettes, long black 
cigars and pipes. We were happy when we 
got aboard the train and knew we were leav- 
ing that city behind us. We might have died 
of a plague if we were there forty-eight hours. 
We went out of there under military escort 
and under the closest surveillance, for the 
Turks are very strict about who goes out of 
and into their country. 

Every few minutes during the night some- 
body would come into our compartment with 
a dark lantern and look us over. And every 
half-hour our passports were examined. Pete 
stayed awake all night and watched them like 
a cat would a mouse. He was just as sus- 
picious as they were, for he didn't want any 
harm to come to Cab and me. The com- 



124 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

partment was a regular sweat-box and we put 
in a tough night. Pete and Walter did any- 
how, but Cab and I can sleep anywhere in any 
old way. We were awake early this morning. 
The line of railroad all along was guarded by 
soldiers and, as we neared the Turkish-Bul- 
garian frontier, soldiers were as thick as flies. 
At every station military officers would come 
into the car and inspect us. 

The usual European breakfast was served 
us on the train. They are getting monoto- 
nous. Our appetites are good in the morning 
and it's tough to have to be satisfied with a 
bun as hard as a brick and coffee that ain't 
any too good. 

We passed through Bulgaria, part of Rou- 
mania and into Servia to-day, and had to flash 
our passports at every station. The scenery 
through the Balkan mountains and along the 
rivers was beautiful, and the costumes of the 
people along the railroad line were picturesque. 
Frequently we bought fruit and bottled mineral 
waters on the way. We had several wedding 
parties on the train, picked up at different 
points, which added to the pleasure of our 
journey. We passed through Heliopolis and 
other important places. There were soldiers 




Palace of the Chamber of Deputies at Athens. 




Birdseye view of Athens, Greece, made from the Acropolis. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 125 

everywhere. At one place Pete got off and 
bought some eggs. They were ancient and 
had been sick a long time. He took them 
back and after a good American argument he 
got some cheese and bologna in place of them. 
We had a pretty good dinner on the train to- 
day. There was a Greek in our compartment 
with us, who was a good fellow, and in the next 
one were two Englishmen whom we got ac- 
quainted with. They had been in Constanti- 
nople for several months. They knocked the 
Turks for fair and told many amusing stories 
about their manners, habits, and customs. 
So glad I am an American! 



ON THE ORIENTAL EXPRESS, BOUND WESTWARD, 

Monday August 13, 1906. 

THE train pulled into Belgrade, Servia, 
about four o'clock this morning. Pete 
waked us up to listen to a band which was 
playing at the station. There was a bridal 
party there and they were having a delightful 
time, singing, dancing, drinking, and making 
merry generally. They had a string band 
with them and the music was dreamy and all 
to the good. They had been up all night and 
were at the station to see the happy couple off 
on their honeymoon trip. Pete and I got off 
the train to get something to eat, and we were 
invited to join in the wedding festivities. 
Everybody was invited. They were all happy. 
The whole world was smiling. 

Leaving Belgrade we followed along the river 
Danube for some time and moved through 
fertile, well cultivated lands over into Hungary. 
At 12.50 we reached Buda Pesth, a magnifi- 

127 



128 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

cent city, the picture of thrift and prosperity. 
We dined there in the railroad station cafe and 
had goulosh and a fine pudding. Austria is a 
beautiful country as far as we could see from 
the train, and the ride up to Vienna was delight- 
ful. Arrived at the capital of Austria about 
six o'clock, where we were obliged to wait 
until 9.40 for connections to continue on our 
Westward journey. In the meantime we had 
a feed in a cafe, and had a most amusing time 
making ourselves understood. Walter was 
stuck on talking the deaf and dumb language 
and was surprised when they couldn't make 
him out. Pete usually got there by the aid of 
pantomime, a few French, a few German, and 
a few other kind of words. He always knows 
how to ask for something to eat and drink and 
can say "Thank you" in all languages which 
never fails to make a hit. We got a carriage 
and drove around the city and by the Royal 
Palace and other interesting places. It was 
a great relief and pleasure to move through a 
real city once more, where the people 
looked human and civilized and the streets 
and buildings clean. It gave us a chance to 
forget Constantinople and its dogs and pigeons 
and filth. With our English friends, we se- 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 129 

cured a compartment to ourselves in a really 
bully car. It was a Wagner. We had to 
give up two marks each extra for riding in it, 
but it is worth the money. We expect to get 
some sleep to-night even if our quarters are 
cramped. 



T 



ON BOARD THE ORIENTAL EXPRESS, 

Tuesday, August 14, 1906. 

HE trip through Germany and into Hol- 
land to-day was a real delight, even if it 
was hot and there wasn't much chance to 
stretch our legs. There were plenty of moun- 
tains and valleys and ruins and beautiful farm- 
ing lands to be seen. For miles we traveled 
along the Elbe River, and we saw castles and 
great military stations, observations or watch 
towers in plenty. We also saw thousands of 
women working hard in the fields, saw them 
ballasting the railroad bed, working with pick 
and shovel in the quarries and at coal heaps. 
Gee! how much better off are the women in 
America. 

At eight o'clock we arrived in Dresden, 
where the fine crockery ware is made, and 
were surprised to find the bill-boards covered 
with posters announcing the "Buffalo Bill 
Wild West Show, August 17 to 21." We had 

131 



132 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

scarcely pulled out of Dresden when we were 
held by a block signal and had to wait there 
for twenty minutes. Right alongside of us 
was the Buffalo Bill Show train on a side 
track. It didn't take Pete long to wake them 
up and let them know we were on the train. 
He used to write press matter for the show and 
knew all the important people with the outfit. 

In a few minutes we had the officials of the 
Wild West, cowboys, Indians, gauchos, Mexi- 
cans, and the whole bunch around our car. 
Johnnie Baker, the champion rifle-shot of the 
world, gave Cab and me presents of a bear's 
claw set in cartridge shells. They are fine 
souvenirs. There was lots of cheering, and 
everybody on the train was guessing who we 
were. We were "some punkins" after that. 
Mr. Fred Hutchinson, the manager, and others 
were most cordial in their greeting and asked 
us to remember them to everybody in America. 
When our train moved away, the whole crowd, 
Indians and all, sung "America — my coun- 
try 'tis of thee!" We'll never forget that 
morning. We were lonesome for a little while 
afterwards. 

At 9.50 we got to Leipzig, and from there to 
Madgeburg was one continuous green field. 




Prison of Socrates, at Athens. 




Mars Hill, where St. Paul preached his famous sermon 
in Athens. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 133 

At Hanover, where we arrived at 3.30, there 
was a thunder shower and it continued to rain 
quite hard all along through Germany — it is 
raining now. It was the first real rain since 
leaving Boston six weeks ago. We passed 
through many manufacturing cities and towns, 
including Essen where we saw the great Krupp 
Gun Works. We got there at 7.25. Pete says 
it looks like Pittsburg. A funny thing hap- 
pened here — we left the station over an hour 
earlier than when we arrived. The time 
changed here. The last few hours we haven't 
been able to see anything, for it is night, is 
raining hard, and the car windows are closed. 
We expect to reach Flushing, Holland, in about 
an hour or 11.30, to take steamer forQueen- 
boro, England. It seems good to write those 
two last words — Queenboro, England — it's 
English and that's a sign we're getting back to 
earth again. 

It's like coming out of a wilderness. 



o 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Wednesday, August 15, 1906. 

UR train from Queenboro pulled into 
Victoria station at London at eight this 
morning. We boarded the steamship Prince 
Henry at Flushing at 11.40 last night and got 
drenched in a rain, thunder, and lightning 
storm. To add to our misery the steamer was 
crowded and we couldn't find any place to 
sleep except on the floor of the saloon. But 
we didn't care much, for we knew we would 
be in London this morning and our journey 
would be ended for a day or two. It was a 
tough night on the English Channel, so Pete 
said, and he ought to know, for he was up all 
night ; but we didn't mind it for we were sleep- 
ing like tops, wet clothes and all. We entered 
Queenboro Harbor about 6 a.m., and saw the 
great British channel fleet lying at anchor. 
There must have been fifty war vessels of all 
classes and all sizes. They were just running 

135 



136 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

up colors and it was a beautiful sight. And 
among them was an U. S. man-of-war, and 
when her colors went climbing up towards the 
sky they looked most beautiful and we took 
off our hats and cut loose with our voices. 
Everybody stared at us, but we didn't care — 
we couldn't help it anyhow. 

The ride from Queenboro to London was 
very interesting and the scenery worth while. 
From Victoria station we drove to the Adelphi 
Hotel on the Strand, where Pete and Walter are 
staying, and when they left their grips we con- 
tinued to the Hotel Cecil. Pa had returned 
from Paris and was waiting for us here. We 
went up to his room, knocked on the door, and 
when he opened it he was the most surprised 
man I ever saw. He had not received our 
telegrams that we were on the way home, and 
didn't expect us until to-morrow. After we 
shaped up respectably we went to breakfast, 
and it wasn't a Continental breakfast. No 
tough buns for us. We plunged into fruit, 
tackled some fine chops, and swam in good 
coffee. We performed a disappearing act on 
that food that put Herman's tricks on the 
blink. 

Pa and Pete then went out to arrange for 




Officers of the King's Army of Greece. 




i- 1 



' 1 



r-j ter 






Among the ruins of the Acropolis in Athens. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 137 

passage for Walter and Pete to go on the 
Arabic with us for America on Friday. We 
again met Dr. Clara Fitzgerald — she is going 
on the Arabic too. We took things very easy 
this afternoon, for we are tired, and after supper 
to-night we will turn in and try to make up for 
lost sleep. I know I won't do a thing to that 
bed, and nothing but the collapse of the roof 
or the blowing up of the Parliament buildings 
will awaken me. Cab is in the same mood. 



I 



HOTEL CECIL, LONDON, 

Thursday, August 16, 1906. 

SPENT this morning entertaining Dr. Clara 
Fitzgerald, showing her the sights of Lon- 
don, and we also did some shopping. The 
afternoon was spent in packing our trunks, as 
we leave for Liverpool to-morrow noon and, 
later in the day, sail upon the Arabic for God's 
own country. This evening Cab and I went 
to the Palace Music Hall to see Fred Niblo, 
whom we once saw at Keith's in Boston, and 
we more than enjoyed his monologue. He is 
a dandy story-teller and is making a hit in Lon- 
don. Pete and Walter secured their passage 
tickets to-day and will be with us on the trip 
home. I'm glad, for Pete will keep 'em awake 
on the trip over, to say the least. He is good 
fun. 



139 




Among the ruins of the Acropolis in Athens. 




Among the ruins of the Acropolis in Athens. 



ON BOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Friday, August 17, 1906. 

UP at six o'clock this morning, we finished 
packing our trunks and valises before 
breakfast. The good-bys to friends at the 
Cecil ate up our time until we got ready to 
start, and at 10.30 Mr. and Mrs. William E. 
W. Conway, Dr. Fitzgerald, Pa, Cab, and 
myself left for the Eastern station. Pete and 
Walter were waiting for us — they had secured 
a compartment in the "boat special," and in a 
minute we were comfortably seated in the rail- 
way carrage. Mr. John Carney, the London 
representative of the New York Clipper who 
is an old Boston boy, Mrs. Carney, and 
Mr. J. Frank Percival Hyatt, the European 
booking agent for the Barnum & Bailey Circus, 
came down to see us off. The train pulled out 
at noon, and shortly before four o'clock we 
arrived at the Liverpool landing-stage. There 
were twenty-four cars to our train. 

141 



142 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

At the steamer we met Mr. John I. Taylor, 
owner of the Boston American League Base- 
ball Team, and many people who were pas- 
sengers with us when we came over and who 
were going back with us. Tom Dowd, ex- 
alderman from Boston, John Mitten, J. F. 
Hannan of Lynn, and others whom we knew, 
greeted us as we came up the gangway. It 
was pleasant to meet them, for we then knew 
there was going to be some fun on the trip. 
It was raining hard and when the Arabic 
moved down the Mersey at five o'clock it was 
dreary sailing. 

Pa secured a special table and special stew- 
ards for our party, consisting of Pa, Cab, Dr. 
Fitzgerald, Walter, Pete, and myself, and we 
are now sure that our appetites won't be over- 
looked. We have a big stateroom with a large 
full-sized bed in it for Pa, and Pete and Walter 
have got a bully room up under the bridge on 
"the island." We spent the early part of the 
evening "calling" and renewing acquaint- 
anceships. It's good to get back on the Arabic 
again and see Captain Hambeltonon the bridge, 
my old sailor friend, who is always happy and 
willing to fix up deck games for us and all the 
crew — there are the fifty-seven varieties — 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 143 

all of them. It was rather dull on account of 
the beastly weather. People sat around 
wrapped up in shawls until bedtime and then 
slid away to their staterooms. 



ON S.S. ARABIC, 

Saturday, August 18, 1906. 

SLEPT bully and right along until last call 
for breakfast, when Pete banged on our 
door and told us to get up. The morning was 
foggy and cold. After breakfast we took a 
settler walk. The First Cabin was dead — it 
was like a morgue — nobody seemed to be 
alive. Joe Quinn of Salem, Lennox Hannan 
of Lynn, and myself went down into the 
saloon, banged the piano and sang (?) and 
tried to wake up the passengers. There was 
nothing doing and we gave up the job. A 
number were seasick and looked daggers at 
us — they were sore because they were not as 
happy as we were. 

About 9 a.m. it began to clear up some — 
— the coast of Ireland was then in sight, and 
an hour later we slowed up off Queenstown to 
take on passengers. A number of people 
came out in small craft to sell laces, black- 

145 



146 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

thorn sticks, and other souvenirs. It was a 
treat to see old men and old women hoisted 
up the steep sides of the Arabic in " boatswain 
chairs" carrying their goods to sell with them. 
I wouldn't come up that way for fifty dollars, 
but they know their business and that lets 
them out. 

And when the passengers began to come 
aboard, we recognized a number of them, and 
Pete and Walter hallooed to several and created 
some excitement. There was a regular re- 
union going on for some time — it was great. 
We spent some time over in the Second Cabin 
to-day — they are alive over there, sociable 
and full of fun. Pete started the ball a-rolling 
telling stories, and now it looks as if things 
would wake up some. We spent this evening 
with several jolly passengers, swopping our 
experiences while abroad and telling stories. 
The fog-horn is blowing and it looks as if it 
will keep up the tooting all night. 



I 



ON BOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Sunday, August 19, 1906. 

SLEPT bully all night even if the fog-horn 
played a bum note every minute. It was a 
tough morning when I got on deck and every- 
body seemed to have the blues, and being Sun- 
day, too — Gee ! it was awful. Everybody 
had a long face and nobody missed service, 
for they were all gloomy and pious. I guess 
they thought they had better be as good as 
they could for once. Why is it that people 
have to wear long faces when they want to be 
pious ? Can't they be good and happy at the 
same time? They make me tired! You'd 
think the world was coming to an end. 

To-day I got acquainted with Mr. W. W. 
Coe, father of the world's champion shot- 
putter. He is full of fun and makes things 
pleasant around him. Also met Congress- 
man John W. Weeks; Judge Henry N. Sheldon, 
of the Massachusetts Supreme Court; Mr. 

147 



148 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

Charles H. Crump, of Shreve, Crump and 
Low, the Boston jewelers; Mr. King C. 
Gillette, the inventor of a safety razor that's 
all to the good ; Mr. James F. Quinn of Salem ; 
Mr. Joseph Hannan of Lynn; Mr. Eugene M. 
Moriarty of Worcester, and others. Mr. 
Moriarty is a prince of good fellows — he is 
full of fun, has lots of Irish wit, and keeps us 
laughing whenever he comes around. He is 
the publisher of the Worcester Post. 

The day dragged slowly and Pa declared 
that the captain's compass ran down during 
the night and that we had lost a lot of time. 
Then some of them did look gloomy — Gee ! 
People aboard ship never tumble to anything. 
They are dead ones for sure. 




A drive about Athens. 




Petticoat uniform of the Greek soldiers. 



T 



ON BOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Monday, August 20, 1906. 

O-DAY opened up fine, — the sun shin- 
ing brightly and the sea just right for an 
enjoyable sail. And it is my 17th birthday, 
which meant that the fun was sure to be on 
for me; and it was. I got mine all right, all 
right! Our whole bunch, took it out of my 
hide in the old-fashioned way with a slipper, 
and when Cab got to me, he used the heel to 
even up for anything I may have done to him. 
Joe Quinn, Lennox Hannan, Henry Farrell, 
Miss Olga Olsen, Miss Estelle Kimball and a 
few others got around the piano this morning 
and we had a fine impromptu concert. In this 
way we got a line on some talent for the regular 
concert to be given on Thursday night. 

Spent part of the day in the Second Cabin, 
where amusement is to be found all the time. 
To-night there was a concert over there. Tom 
Dowd presided. Pete went over and did a 

149 



150 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

funny turn and made a big hit. Mrs. Joseph 
Murphy from our cabin also assisted at the 
piano. The usual number of porpoises and 
whales were discovered during the day — 
another burning barn was sighted — but only 
the discoverers saw them, although others 
strained their eyes and their necks, too, trying 
to get a line on them. I walked a few miles 
around the decks this evening, — it was fine 
weather and the exercise will help to make 
me sleep, although I can sleep without it. 



ON BOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Tuesday, August 21, 1906. 

THE weather was good this morning but 
somewhat cold. Again we stirred up 
the denizens of "the morgue" with musical 
(?) selections in the saloon, and we gained a 
few recruits to our singing society. It got 
foggy about two o'clock, cleared away some a 
little later, and then got cool and we all began 
to smell icebergs. Everybody thought that 
the iceberg was another fog when it was an- 
nounced that one was to be seen. But it was 
true. A funny thing happened when Pete 
cried out: "Oh, look at the iceberg." There 
were about twenty-five saloon passengers stand- 
ing about on that part of the deck when he 
made the announcement, and they all turned 
and looked at each other. It was a funny 
situation and I'm laughing yet. 

The iceberg was a great sight. We got 
within two miles of it and it was a whopper. 

151 



152 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

The captain said it was the largest he had ever 
seen and that it was easily 800 feet long and 
over 150 feet high. It was a beautiful sight. 
It was one thing we all wanted to see and it 
was worth the entire trip alone. It was foggy 
a short time afterwards and there was a feel- 
ing of anxiety, for everybody felt that there 
were icebergs around which caused the fog. 
Some of the passengers with sharp eyes saw 
( ?) polar bears and Esquimaux on the ice floe 
after Pa had pointed them out. Gee! some 
people can see anything. Pa says, "it's the 
power of suggestion," whatever that means. 




At the summit of the Acropolis in Athens. 




A street peddler in Athens. 



ON BOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Wednesday, August 22, 1906. 

CAB and I spent most of our time to-day in 
the Second Cabin. There's always some- 
thing doing over there. It was a waste of 
money for Pa to buy First Cabin tickets for 
us. Dignity is all right, but I like a good time 
better. Pete was over too and made a hit 
with some of his stories. Where does he get 
them all? To-night we attended the regular 
benefit concert in the Second Cabin for the 
Seamen's Charities, and it was good, too. Tom 
Dowd was the master of ceremonies and Miss 
Murphy was the accompanist. She is very 
obliging. Pete was there with his stories, a 
recitation, and a comic song in English dialect. 
More than ten pounds English money was 
taken at the concert, the biggest amount ever 
raised in the Second Cabin on the Arabic. I 
will take a sleep-producer around the deck and 
then to bed. It has been a good day. 

153 



ON BOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Thursday August 23, 1906. 

THE fog-horn was blowing hard almost 
all day, and it was very uncomfortable 
on deck. I attended a rehearsal in the saloon 
this morning for the concert which was given 
to-night. Walter Critchell was the main 
squeeze, — he got up the show. The rest of 
the day I spent in the Second Cabin playing 
games, and watching an interesting game of 
"forty-five" in which several Irish experts 
were engaged. I thought they'd split the table 
several times with their knuckles. A "bath- 
ing suit party," announced on the bulletin at 
which everybody was expected to appear in 
bathing costumes, did not take place. It was 
slated for the afternoon, and it was funny to 
watch a number of the ladies on the lookout 
to see who was coming to the party, and 
some of the men, too, who expected to see 
the ladies in bathing suits. It's a cinch 

155 



156 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

to have them fall for any kind of a game on 
board ship. 

The concert which was given to-night in the 
First Cabin was the most successful ever given 
by any of the White Star Liners. More than 
fifty-one pounds sterling was realized for the 
Sailors' Orphans Home, and the entertainment 
was great. Walter Critchell, who got it up, and 
all the talent, were congratulated in fine style, 
— and they deserved it, too. T. C. Quinn of 
Salem, Cab and I were the ushers, and we per- 
formed our duties all right, all right. There 
were piano solos by Mrs. Joseph Murphy, Mr. 
H. C. Grant, Mr. John Dudley Peake; songs 
by Mr. J. H. Farrell, Miss Olga Olsen, Miss 
E. H. Kimball, Miss Edith Bubble; duet by 
Miss Olsen and Mr. Farrell; readings by Miss 
Lillian Drouet, and humorous stories and 
recitations by Pete. The concert closed with 
the singing of the American and British na- 
tional anthems. Mr. Joseph F. Quinn of 
Salem, presided. Pa, Mr. Conway, Mr. 
Hannan, Mr. Gillette, Mr. Coe, and half 
a dozen others occupied reserved seats in 
front as a sort of Honorary Committee. 
Everybody was in evening clothes and it was 
a swell affair. Miss Olsen and Mr. Farrell 




Aboard the Russian S. S. "Emperor Nicholas II." 




Birdseye view of Constantinople. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 157 

were all the peaches and cream with their 
duet, "When we are married." They made 
a hit for fair. 



ON BOARD S.S. ARABIC, 

Friday, August 24, 1906. 

TO-DAY opened foggy and chilly, but 
quickly cleared and was beautiful all day. 
I played cricket and shuffle-board most of the 
morning, and Pete, Cab, and I did some snap- 
shotting with our cameras. Everybody on 
board ship seemed to be happy, and all were 
looking forward to the arrival in Boston to- 
morrow. The New England coast, although 
it was several hundred miles away, was dis- 
covered a number of times, and was easily 
seen by some of the passengers, who even dis- 
tinguished objects moving about. Some people 
have great imaginations, especially on board 
ship at sea. Pa got a hundred people inter- 
ested in a forest fire which he discovered, and 
while some of them couldn't see it, they could 
easily smell the burning trees. What soft 
things some people are. " Easy Mark" hasn't 
a look-in with some of them. This afternoon 

159 



160 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

we packed our grips to be ready for disem- 
barking in the morning. 

This evening we witnessed the most glorious 
sunset ever seen. Everybody agreed to that, 
even one passenger who always had some- 
thing to add after everybody else got through. 
It was simply gorgeous. I couldn't begin to 
properly describe it, and it was right over Bos- 
ton, too. Pete called the attention of several 
New Yorkers to that fact. Pete warmed up 
over the sunset and was pointing out "opa- 
lescent effects," "amethystine tints," "bathed 
in the refraction of thesun's rays," " iridescent," 
" prismatically gorgeous," etc., while the pas- 
sengers stared at him. But he never moved 
a muscle as he raved over the beauties of that 
sunset. 

After sunset we all went up on the hurricane 
deck and started an impromptu concert. The 
weather was delightful, and for a couple of 
hours we had some fine chorus singing. Cap- 
tain Hambelton posted a bulletin at noon say- 
ing that we would drop anchor outside Boston 
Light at 3.20 to-morrow morning and go in at 
low tide and dock at Charlestown at 9.30. 
The Empire State Limited can't beat that for 
an exact schedule. And just think too, we 
haven't seen land for a week. 




Steaming up the Bosphorous, near Constantinople. 




Entrance to the Station at Athens. 



H 



WINTHROP, MASSACHUSETTS, 

Saturday, August 25, 1906. 

OME again — and from a foreign shore. 
We were on deck at 5.30 this morning 
and found ourselves at anchor in Boston Har- 
bor, just above Long Island Light, and oppo- 
site Deer Island. When we went up forward 
on the observation deck there was quite a 
crowd there, and Pete was just remarking that 
he had seen everything worth seeing in Europe, 
but nothing so pleasing and beautiful as Boston 
Harbor, even if it was low tide. And most 
everybody seemed to agree with him. We 
could almost see our house in Winthrop, and I 
never knew before how much I loved it until 
we were anchored and had to stay there. If I 
had been permitted, I would have swam to 
Winthrop, and I think I could make it even if 
it was several miles off. 

The custom authorities came on board about 
eight o'clock. Pete knew the whole bunch — 

161 



162 A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 

is there anybody worth knowing that he does 
not know, and anybody who does not know 
him ? 

At 9.15 we docked at Charlestown, had our 
luggage examined quickly, and in an hour were 
on our way home. It's a great sight to see 
the people greeting their friends. Four of 
them were crying and they were happy. 
Mama and our brothers and the manager 
of Papa's office and some friends were on the 
pier to receive us. 

It was like leaving home to part with Pete 
and Walter at the wharf. They had been our 
pals for six weeks — we had traveled twelve 
thousand miles together, we ate and slept to- 
gether, and we were a happy bunch. But 
" the best of friends must part," and we parted 
but to meet again in a few days. Grandma 
McRae was waiting on the porch for us when 
we drove up to the house, and maybe she 
didn't give us a welcome! A big bunch of 
fellows were waiting to see us, too, and between 
unpacking our trunks and bags, and telling 
about our travels, we were kept busy all day. 
Then I tackled this diary. 

The trip is over. It was great in every 
sense. I'm sure I learned a lot of the world 




A Servian village. 




Another view of London Bridge. 



A BOY'S VACATION ABROAD 163 

and the people in it. I learned to love America 
more, and have become actually proud that 
I am an American. We are cleaner, better, 
brighter, and happier in this country. Truly 
it is God's own country! As Pete says, "I 
would rather be an abandoned lamp-post in 
Boston than the proudest castle in Europe." 
And Cab, who thinks he is a poet, gives it as 
his opinion that — 

" The Orient for Orientals will do, 

And the British isles are very fine, 
The Continent surely will interest you, 
But always America for mine! " 

And I guess both Cab and Pete are right. 
Europe is a fine place to visit, but for a per- 
manent abode I much prefer America. And 
because of this trip I shall always love America 
more. 

THE END 



THE C. M. CLARK PUBLISHING CO. 



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